Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

August 2nd, 2010

Elio al Mare Restaurante

Connie & Mary

It was a brutal work week for Bruce and Mary and particularly for their boss and good friend Connie. So they decided to go out Friday night for a little R&R starting with a mini happy hour at Bruce and Mary’s and then on to Elio’s in Progreso.

Connie arrives at our door about 5:30 and as we happen to be in the kitchen there is no need to call as we had instructed to her do, our silly doorbells are on the fritz again. We collect our drinks and head to the promenade and we all light up, Connie her cigarette and we our shared Cohiba Cuban cigar. It is such a relief to have this last week behind us. Connie is the project manager for the Canadian news site that we moderate and this last week was a perfect storm of difficult, sensitive stories, a glitchy software platform that we suspect of posting comments on its own, and strange policy decisions rendered by the news site’s liaison who is the boss of us all. Of course Connie is never really off work as she is tethered to a Crackberry and as we chat and relax she checks on a couple beeps.

We talk about Connie’s trip to Seattle to visit her sick friend and how cancer sucks. We talk of the new mods in training, good friends of ours and how it is a much more complicated job than it was when we came on board and finally we talk about how we better get in gear and drive out to Progreso before we lose our ambition.

We hop into Connie’s Suzuki SUV (actually she is car-sitting for friends back in the states) and take Paseo and Prolongacion out of town to the super highway to Progreso. We talk of the Meridano drivers, crazy SOBs that they are. A friend of ours Tonya, lived in La Manzanilla on the west coast and their big city was Guadalajara, one of the largest cities in Mexico. She had no problem tooling around that big city but here in Mérida she avoids driving whenever she can. For some reason these muy tranquilo Meridanos turn into Mr. Hydes when they get behind the wheel.

We enter Progreso and we inadvertently distract Connie with our conversation as we find ourselves on the very busy Malecon, along the beach. We angle around and make our way to the eastern edge of town where the street has turned into a very rough dirt road and suddenly we are there, Elio al Mare Restaurante. We enter walking by the large kitchen through a dining room to the patio seating area and take up a table next to the only other group in the joint, a bunch of gringos. The sun has just sunk below the waters of the gulf and off to the left we have a beautiful twilight view of the longest pier in the world stretching out into the darkening void of the tranquil ocean.

Bruce & Connie, Lights of Progreso Pier in Background

We are presented with menus and holy mackerel! There are a lot of choices. There is every type of pasta, carpaccio, fish, and meat. The server approaches us and Connie looking around the table says, “We all want drinks don’t we?” I say, “Connie do you know us?” She laughs.

Sipping on our beers and wine we discuss the menu and the women order penne pastas. Connie has a Penne Sicilian featuring tuna and capers and Mary has Penne Arrabiata, a spicy tomato sauce. I order a Tagliolini with shrimp and squid and we all share a Caprese Salad of sliced tomatoes layered over slices of fresh mozarella.

We chat about how cool this place is and Connie is concerned that there are only two tables occupied. I tell her to just wait, it is July on the beach and they start and go late and it is only about 9 at this time. Our food comes and all the dishes are pretty much perfect. Now don’t get me wrong, I am as far from a foodie as you can get, in fact once I ordered a pesado con crema de espinaca, fish fillet in a spinach sauce, at Las Vigas and I was nearly done eating and enjoying it very much before I realized that they had accidentally served me the chicken offering, in spinach sauce. So all I will say is my dish was very tasty to me and Connie who lived many years in San Francisco which practically makes her a foodie and Mary, cook extraordinaire, thought their dishes perfect. We linger over drinks, relishing simply relaxing with friends as the night darkens and the place fills up. We ask for la cuenta and it comes to 769P, about $61.50US for the three of us, including 15% servicio. We figure the bill, settle up and make our way through the crowded restaurant to the car and head back into Mérida. It has been a very lovely evening and we can surely recommend Elio al Mare, on the beach in Progreso.

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. Bruce appreciates any and all commentary. To make a comment or to view existing comments, please double click on the post title and scroll down. Hasta Pronto!

July 24th, 2010

A Gringo’s View of the War

Hola loyal readers. Last post Bruce was little full of himself, “wanting it all”, he said. As Mary pointed out to him, their lives are not so perfect. They still work for a living and have the normal stresses of everyday life (although certainly not to the level of their old lives). Although they have had much serendipity in their escape to Mexico there are some things they cannot escape and one is the fact that they are still Americans. Please permit Bruce this rare foray into American politics.

My morning routine has me opening my email (after I check my online chess games, and it looks like you have me in this one Kevin) and a twice daily email I get is from the Minneapolis Star Tribune, the Strib, many call it, and today the headline is “Five US Soldiers Die in Afghanistan Blasts”.

I’m going to keep this short.

As many of you know we moderate a Canadian news site and the war in Afghanistan is in the news every single day as Canadian forces are a major player. I can tell you that public sentiment is strongly in favor of pulling out. One common post is simply the listing of the names of the 151 Canadian soldiers who have given their lives to this “cause”.

Who understands this war? I have read a couple novels that have given me some insight to the region. One, in particular, West of Kabul, East of New York by Tamin Ansary showed me that Afghanistan and surrounding states are not countries as we westerners perceive such. They are coalitions of tribes with constant power struggles pretty much being the order of the day. In my mind there is no hope for a Democratic US allied country emerging from this mess and we should just get the hell out and let the tribes sort it out.

In conclusion I will let the tragically deceased Minnesotan, 23 year old, 1st Lt. Christopher Goeke, sum up my feelings in what the deeply patriotic soldier, shortly before his death, told his father Randy, “It doesn’t matter what we do over here, when we get pulled out, it’s going to go back to the same way it was — it’s just useless.”

Thanks for visiting, gentle reader. Bruce hopes that you will express your feelings on the war, pro or con. Healthy debate is the backbone of a strong democracy. To comment or view comments, double click the post title and scroll down. Hasta Pronto!

May 16th, 2010

The First Rule of Happy Hour Club Is……

Bruce & Kevin - Damage Assessment First Happy Hour

Bruce & Kevin - Damage Assessment First Happy Hour

A part of Bruce and Mary’s old life back in the States that they have really missed is the Friday night happy hours they used to share with their St. Cloud friends at brother Neil’s place (one of Joey’s pals, when announcing that he was going to “Uncle Neil’s Place” for happy hour was asked, “Where is that bar, never heard of it?”). And before St. Cloud it was our Alexandria friends who we partied down with, every Friday night. Let’s see what happens in Mérida when Bruce and Mary introduce that time honored tradition of Friday night happy hours to their Mérida friends.

We’d talked about it for a long time and we finally decided to kick off the first Mérida Happy Hour back in January when Kevin and Rosie were visiting. Kevin and Rosie are very social and they had met many of our Mérida friends on prior visits so we knew they would enjoy it, as visitors, so we sent out the invites. The invite went something like this: Please join us for the  first Mérida Happy Hour this Friday. It commences at 5 and ends….. In an effort to keep the hosts responsibilities minimal (to encourage lots of hosting volunteers) everyone should bring their drinks and a botana, snack, to share. By the end of every happy hour a new host shall announce themselves and the tradition shall continue. Absolutely no RSVPs, come if you like, don’t if you don’t and the first rule of Happy Hour Club is…. there are no rules, the above are just suggestions.

Well that first happy hour at our place was quite the success with about 25 people showing up, including our local friends Enrique and Mary (not Maria) who, in typical local fashion did not show until most guest were leaving. Well it didn’t make much difference to us as Dave the Brit and his entourage kept us up until 1am anyhow.

The next weekend our good friends Lorcan and Lexi hosted, at their cozy house in Centro, with its beautiful gardens and patio. We were the first there and helped them set-up and again it was quite the crowd but with a number of different folks who were new to us. The local contingent showed about when we were leaving which caused all future Happy Hour invites to not be open ended. Now, quite explicitly, invitations  state that the hours of Happy Hour are 5-7.

The next happy hour was at Dave the Brit’s new fish and chips place on Calle 59 in the heart of downtown

Happy Hour Club at Cap'n Flint's

Happy Hour Club at Captain Flint's

and gringo gulch. Cap’n Flints was not slated to be open for a bit but Dave thought this would be a good opportunity for a trial run and it was a huge success. Dave started off with botanas of breads and cheeses and then quickly served up his fish and chips and deep fried empanada type things that Dave’s right hand man Varon had essentially invented. Very good but not too heart healthy as you can imagine. Again there were a lot of familiar faces and another batch of new ones.

The next happy hour was hosted by Enrique and Mary, our local friends and they live way out in Fracc. Francisco Montejo. This was the first happy hour that we could not walk to. Our taxi pulled up at Enrique’s brand new house in a brand new development and boy, were Lorcan and Lexi glad to see us. They were the first guests to arrive, we were the second. You see, Lorcan and Lexi’s Spanish is quite a bit better than the average gringo down here but not quite up to conversational levels so they had been struggling. And soon we were joined by a neighbor Alberto who treated us to his Tamarindo Margaritas (quite good) and soon Dave and his entourage showed up along with a few others and the evening, for us, was capped by Alberto tuning up his guitar and crooning some Latin love songs for us. It was a very enjoyable happy hour (but smallish due to the far out location) and one that we were happy to have shared with Dale and Judy, church friends of Mary’s mother Harriet, who were in town for just a couple of nights on a bus tour of Central and SE Mx.

Alberto Serenading Us at Enrique and Mary's Casa

Alberto Serenading Us at Enrique and Mary's Casa

Then for the first time, no one volunteered in response to the weekly Wednesday batch email that Lorcan, bless his soul, had taken upon himself to send out informing of the next happy hour host or soliciting one. So, we decided to meet at El Lucero del Alba, our neighborhood bar. As we are the founding fathers we chose our bar and a fine one it is with reasonable beers and free, most excellent botanas. We were the first ones there and we helped our server buddies Filipe, Lucio, and Enrique bunch tables together for this gringo onslaught and leading the charge was Dave and his entourage followed closely by Lorcan and Lexi. We had about 20+  turn out and it was fun but it was difficult to mix as you had to hop from table to table to do so.

Mary and the Happy Hour Club Core

Mary and the Hard Core of The Happy Hour Club

We missed the next happy hour which was hosted by Debbie our good friend and it was the doozy of the bunch as 45 people attended. We heard a lot about it at the next happy hour that we attended (I know, we the founders dropped out for a little while and boy did we get crap for it!), again at El Luceros. Once more no volunteer stepped forward and Lorcan and Lexi and Mary and I discussed this at length as things like Happy Hour are important! We agreed that this Happy Hour club had morphed out of all recognition. We looked around the room and we knew maybe half of the people and we also knew why nobody was volunteering, it had grown too big! So we decided to do one last call for a volunteer and if no one stepped up, we’d take a break for the summer and reassess in the fall. And that is what happened, no one stepped up and we are on break. But I like my idea better. Once we get back from MN in early June (we have some things to attend to like Mary’s annual May 17th celebration and… something else…. oh yea, our daughter Helen’s marriage!) I will propose, because why the hell should we take the summer off from Happy Hour(?), that we, on the sly, start all over. Only this time it will be only the hard core, our intimate group (you know who you are) and we will all be sworn to secrecy. I am thinking of passwords and secret hand shakes. I’ll keep you posted.

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. Once again it is another case of be careful what you wish for, for Bruce and Mary. But maybe next time they can do Happy Hour right and it will be a cause for celebration for all of their Mx days! Well that was a little over the top, but what the hell you can never underestimate the power of Happy Hour.

February 28th, 2010

My Favorite Yucatecan Stereotypes

Yucatecans Dancing in Parque Santa Lucia

Yucatecans Dancing in Parque Santa Lucia

Now that Bruce and Mary have been moderating comments on a Canadian news website for over a year they consider themselves experts on stereotyping as that is one of the things that they guard against. Read on as Bruce employs those dark skills.

Well, we have been on the lam in México for over two years now and we feel that we have somewhat of a handle on the local culture and people. Following are some of our favorite stereotypes of a people that we have grown to love:

All Yucatecans are Yucatecans first, Mexicans second. It is not uncommon to hear a Yucatecan (when planning a trip to another state) say, “I’m going to Mexico next week.”

All Yucatecans hate DF (Mexico City).

When you ask a Yucatecan for directions, you will always get them, whether they know where your destination is or not. We think that is because they don’t want to disappoint.

When visiting, Yucatecans will never leave until you ask them to, and if it has been overlong, they will bolt when given permission.

Yucatecans love to drink beer and there are no ornery drunks, but a few falling down ones.

All Yucatecan babies and toddlers are unbelievably cute. And the average age of their parents appears to be 15.

All Yucatecan women (except Mayan madres) bare their midriffs whether they should or not.

The bigger a Yucatecan hombre’s belly is the more he will want to pull up his t-shirt and rub it.

Yucatecan pedestrians have no peripheral vision and will force you to walk out onto the street to avoid

Busy Sidewalk in Centro, Merida

Busy Sidewalk in Centro

running them over, on the skinny centro sidewalks.

Yucatecan drivers have the uncanny ability to gage whether they need to slow down so as not to hit you in the crosswalk. If they calculate that they will miss you by an inch, their foot never leaves the gas pedal.

Yucatecans love to work. They will, with a smile, work in the hot sun all day long, cracking jokes with their compatriots.

Yucatecans love to party and there are approximately 350 dias de festiva per year.

All Yucatecans are musicians or artists or both along with their day jobs.

Yucatecans burst into song walking down the street all the time.

Yucatecan MCs love to talk, and will do so ad nauseum, especially when you’re waiting for the music to begin.

All Yucatecans can dance like Fred and Ginger.

Yucatecans love their music at 140Db. Amazingly they can converse at this sound level and even talk on cell phones.

All Yucatecans have cell phones.

Mexican time is real, Yucatecans are always two hours late for any engagement.

Yucatecans can sleep anywhere, at anytime, even on a 15 minute ride on a rickety city bus.

If you admire a Yucatecan  señora’s jewelry, she will remove it and give it to you, no questions asked, and no thanks or money accepted.

Should you give a Yucatecan a regalo, gift, they are very gracious but they will not open it in your presence and you will never receive a thank you card.

You will never be shortchanged in a Mercado. In fact, should you walk away without your change the vendor will hunt you down, shouting “Cambio, Cambio!”

And my all time favorite stereotype is: Should a gringo walk into any Yucatecan cantina, said gringo will instantly become a rock star.

Thanks for visiting gentle reader and feel free to share with Bruce your stereotypes, but please be nice. Hasta Luego!

September 7th, 2009

Celestun and the Ria Celestun Biosphere

Flamingo City

Flamingo City

Since Bruce and Mary have become gainfully employed, again, working for ICUC from their poolside they have decided to take advantage of their new-found wealth and explore the Yucatan. A few weeks ago they had the pleasure of spending the weekend in Campeche. This adventure is to Celestun, an important breeding ground for Caribbean flamingos.

It’s Saturday and we do sleep in a little but then we get in gear and we’re out the door about 9:15 heading to La Chocolat for their buffet breakfast. We figure we’ll be dealing with the 11:00 Celestun bus out of the Noreste Terminal de Autobuses but breakfast goes quickly and at Mary’s suggestion we take a taxi to the bus depot. We arrive to stand in line at the only ticket window that issues tix to Celestun. It’s 9:50 and the 10:00 bus is loading so naturally the gal at the window takes this time to take a break and even the locals in front of us get pissed and start raising hell with the other ticket takers. It’s about 5 to 10 when she shows up all smiles and chatting with her cohorts but we do get our tix and I even get a chance to visit the baňo (it’s free!) just before we take off on this 2 ½ hour bus ride.

We cruise out of Mérida via Avenida Canuk and we’re picking up travelers all along the way, we’re beginning to understand how this 60m trip can take 2 ½ hrs. We cruise through the little pueblos of Caucel, Ucu, Hunucma, Umon, Tetiz, Kinchil and then finally we get some open road but we’re still picking up folks at their driveways in this forsaken low scrub jungle. Finally We arrive at the tiny ADO terminal in Celestun and as we’re walking to the beach a couple blocks away, a hawker for a tour approaches us speaking rather good English. He explains that his tour is 2  Cheaper by the Dozen 2 film ½ Species II full movie hrs and the cost is 250P each for 4 and 200P for six. We tell him “mas tarde”.

We continue towards the beach and the first hotel we see is the Hotel Sol y Mar and it is a colorful, rather eclectic place with an open air lounge and bar protected by blue hanging tarps. One of the young gals manning the cocina serving the lounge but fronting the street hollers for the manager, a pretty, heavy-set 30-something named Delori and she shows us a non a/c room for 200P and allows that it will be loud with the music from the zocalo this evening. Then she shows us an a/c room for 350P further from the action that is spartan but clean and we figure for the extra $7.50 we’ll take it. We make sure everything works, the fan, a/c, lights and then we dump our stuff and change and stop down at the office to pay.

Naturally she can’t make change for 400P and goes next door but is back in a minute. We immediately walk to the beach and right away see a little shelter in front of one of the many seaside bars and it is manned by our tour hawking friend and we realize that this is the center for the 4 tour boats that are in the queue and he is trying to fill them all in order. However, Delori had said the price should be 150P. I ask the guy about this and he says yea sure if they get 8 people on a boat. We say count us in and he says it will be about 20-30 minutes so we order a couple of beers for 50P total and nurse them as we take in the beautiful coastline and perfect weather, low 90s and a breeze. Just as we are finishing up our beers the tour operator comes by, “Estan Listo?”, Ready? Si we say and wander up to the shelter.

There are two local couples with small kids and we pay the 200P each as do the others, I am careful to observe. Manuel, our tour guide and operator, introduces himself and hopes that he doen’t have to translate into English eyeing the two obvious gringos and Mary assures him that we speak un poco. Mary does do a helluva job of translating for me and really doesn’t miss anything important. I am at the point where I understand about 2 words out of every sentence but evidently I need three. Gotta work on that.

We put out in a 8 passenger canopied fiberglass skiff powered by a 60hp Mercury tiller steered outboard. We speed south along the coast to round the point and access the vast ria sytem. It is exhilarating to be speeding along in a boat with my non-existant hair streaming back, I can’t remember when I have boated last.

About 15 minutes into our cruise we slow around a sandy point where numerous cormorants and pelicans are putzing around. We put in across this minor inlet and take a short hike to see a dead forest of Manglares, Mangroves killed by a salt onslaught of some unnamed hurricane.

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The Dead Forest

The Dead Forest

Back to the water we finally round the point and enter the main ria flow. Immediately we are rewarded by a flock of flamingos doing their thing, constantly feeding on the microscopic shrimp and algae that give them their color. A little bit later we are lucky enough to see a nearly all gray adolescent (newly hatched are pure white). We slow and everyone snaps a zillion pix, I am lucky enough with my basic camera to catch some running flamingos and one in flight at about 3 feet above the water (pretty blurry, though) and I am surprised to see how they lay out and look like a 727 in flight. I wish I had the long lens digital camera the wealthy yuppie couple in front of us have. He takes nearly as many pix of Flamingos as of his 4 yr old pouty mouthed boy. They seriously need to have another kid, for his sake.

Flamingos Walking on Water

Flamingos Walking on Water

Blurry Picture of Flamingo Flying

Blurry Picture of Flamingo Flying

Kites Soaring and Roosting
Omen IV: The Awakening ipod

Kites Soaring and Roosting

We travel several kilometers into the ria network and it is weird to know that I could probably wade across some of these rivers that are at times, a ½ mile wide. We travel inland as far as a Kite nesting area and that is as much fun for me as the Flamingos. Hundreds of huge Kites are roosting and soaring and diving and just plain hovering on the sea breezes.

We turn around and head back but by way of a channel thru manglares which are populated by cocodrillos

, crocodiles but we are not lucky enough to see any of these. We see plenty of casas de termitas nested in the crooks of manglares and some are big as doghouses. We emerge into the open ria and put up at a well kept dock to experience the Ojo de Agua, the Eye of Water. About 50 meters inland from the dock is a small cenote system fueled by springs that you can actually see bubbling up to the surface of these approximately 8 foot deep cenotes. In contrast to the ria these cenotes are crystal clear. I step down the ladder to about chest deep and that is about all I want as it is muy frio! I clamber back up and join the others in the boat. This is the end of the tour and now it is full speed back to our origin.

Looking for Crocodiles The Signal divx

Looking for Crocodiles

Of course nothing goes smoothly on these ventures. After rounding the point, Manuel idles the outboard to reposition all of us closer to the stern to reduce the pounding against the surf for the yuppie couple and their sleeping child sitting at the front. Of course the motor dies, and doesn’t start. He tries everything, finally resorting to stripping the motor housing to the point he can hand start it with a rope. As he is struggling with this and we are being driven by the surf he jokes that maybe we can swim to shore. Mary is the only one to laugh and the yuppie gal shouts, “no con ninos!” Not with babies! The motor is finally hand-started but he cannot put in where we started at the the tour shack but has to put in about a couple hundred meters shy.

We deboat and Mary and the other couple tip Manuel for a helluva job, it’s not his fault for the mechanical problems, I doubt he even owns the boat, but the yuppie couple leaves in a huff.

After legging it back to our hotel we clean up and we are hungry, it is 4 and we haven’t eaten since breakfast. We order a couple Estrellas cervesas because they are only 10P but we discover that is because they are ponies. But they are 190mg which is more that half of the 20P beers, so I don’t feel cheated. I light my cohiba while relaxing at a comfortable spot in the open air lounge and wait for our light snacks, 3 ham and cheese burritas for me and a couple cheese stuffed empanadas for Mary. Our 4 ponies and food comes to 84P about $6.30.

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Bruce in the Lounge of the Hotel Sol y Mar

Bruce in the Lounge of the Hotel Sol y Mar

It is unbelievably hot even though we are unbelievably relaxed. Mary is in a hammock and I have my feet up sitting in the rare, comfortable wrought iron chair and I am finishing up the last of my cigar.

We decide to go up the a/c’ed room just to cool down. We crank it up and lie down, I hear Mary snoring and I almost do have an afternoon nap, which never happens and doesn’t happen this time but we are both refreshed to be returned to a non sweating state, if but for a moment.

The Prince & Me II: The Royal Wedding psp

As we are leaving to explore I notice for the first time a sign pointing to the upper, third, level that says “Ricu’s bar”. Mary had asked about it earlier and was told it wasn’t open. We go up for a look/see and we find a beautiful brand new facility with a bar to the side and and sheltered area at the front overlooking the street. We see one of the staffers moving tables and chairs for a birthday party later and we ask if we can drink beers and watch the sunset as this roof top bar faces the gulf, dead west, and the sun is only about half a dozen diameters from setting. She, like all these wonderful people, gives us a look of “are you crazy?”, and says “Claro que si!” of course! The same answer I got when I had asked (right in front of a non-smoking sign) if I could smoke my cigar. We walk a couple blocks to a c-store and buy a 6 of Tecate.

Arriving back we find that we are screwed by clouds that are squatting on the horizon but that is a small price for the great view and the people watching. We even see the yuppie couple walking down below us. Mary hails them and they exchange pleasantries.

With our six pack exhausted and the evening settling in we are suddenly inspired by one of the ubiquitous and loud, loudspeaker-equipped trucks that regularly promote everything from pizza, to political candidates to, in this case, the world cup qualifying game between México and Costa Rica. We remember what a gas our son Joey had in Chile when he wandered into a packed bar watching the Chilean futbol team in a world competition.

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The message is over-amplified to distortion so we can’t catch the name of the place but we figure it has to be along this beach street which is packed with restaurants and joints. We walk several blocks and seeing into many residences, men are gathered around their tvs in great anticipation. We begin to wonder though, if we’re going the right way. We pass a shirtless and well built young man washing his car in his carport and Mary figures – he looks like an athlete, he’ll know where to go. Sure enough he knows exactly where to go, to La Ria Restaurant and Bar and for the first time in México we get correct directions. We walk the 4 blocks the other direction, turn the corner to the beach and there it is, a large bar totally open to the west, a parking lot and a building from the beach with only a short cement wall to delineate it from the parking lot.

There is a huge projection screen dispaying the current futbol game with a 150 DB sound system blaring excited announcers’ play by play. We sit down, the only patrons so far, and proceed to be ignored by the staffers. We quickly discover they are still setting up so we just grab a table right in front of the screen and relax watching Brazil and someone else, we can’t figure out the countries’ Spanish initials, for example The USA is EUA. They have a countdown on the screen that shows it is about 25 minutes until game time so we just relax and enjoy the breeze, it is cooling down nicely.

Finally more staff arrive and we are waited on. We order a couple beers and Mary has a guacamole and chips thing for her meal and I decide to have my first hamburgesa down here. It turns out to be a a cheeseburger with a slin slice of ham cradled in there and it is very good or would be if they hadn’t been so kind as to garnish it for me with the typical watered down stuff that passes for ketchup down here. I also get a little tub for my American styled FFs, and it’s not so bad that I don’t dip my fries in it. Mary is reminded of the joke, “The food here is terrible!” “Yes, and such small portions.”

Sleepaway Camp movie

A few more locals wander in and the game finally begins. At first Costa Rica is controlling the pelota, ball and threatens a couple times, but then México starts asserting its dominance and they score on a long kick through defenders across the net and by the diving goaltender into the far corner. The crowd erupts! But it is a disappointingly small crowd, the servers outnumber the patrons. We watch until it is 3-0 and head back to the hotel. It is 10:30 and we are spent. We turn on the a/c and talk about the day. We had a lot of fun and we will strongly recommend a Celestun visit to all our friends and family. Then, exhausted, it is lights out for us.

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. As usual, Bruce welcomes any and all commentary.

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Hasta Pronto!

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August 23rd, 2009

A Mexican Milestone for Bruce and Mary

Animals Are Beautiful People divx

Hellraiser: Hellworld rip

Bruce and Mary have reached the 1 ½ year mark of their escape to México and are happy to report that they are still on the lam. Bruce is feeling a little introspective this day.

It seems like a long time ago that we were stuffing the last of our belongings into storage on a nasty -20° Minnesota day and hopping a one way flight to Mérida.

We spent the first month on the beach in Chicxulub courtesy of arrangements made through Jaromey, the lovely Canadian Francophone property manager who is now one of our best friends, which seems somewhat karmic as she is the very first person we met down here. We successfully decompressed to the point of nearly forgetting our names.

Then came our move to Mérida and the earnest hunt for an income property, a B&B ideally. We moved to Calle 59 in the la Corazon

, the heart of downtown with the nicest man on earth, abogado, attorney Fernando as our landlord. Freshly moved into our one bedroom flat we investigated a B&B on the coast in Chuburna and actually made an offer and  the owners were willing to finance. We thought our dream had come true until that awful anxiety filled night wondering if, now that our longtime dream was within our grasp did we really want to run another business, worried every month about cracking the nut? Didn’t we come down here to escape just that very thing, an anxious sell, sell, sell, bottom line American life? When we finally faced the reality of our dream, it shattered into ragged shards. We withdrew our offer.

Now what? We started networking through the monthly Nafta and Mérida English Library MELO Night mixers and without even trying I found myself with a sweet deal at a gym and a handful of personal training clients and Mary was teaching English as a Second Language at the CIS school on Calle 52. Through this networking we also started our career in house-sitting, the first opportunity offered to us before we had really even heard of house-sitting down here. We (make that I) finally discovered that, if you don’t push for things they will come. This is a foreign concept for me, as I have always thought you had to actively and aggressively pursue your goals, even if you didn’t really even know what those goals are, as evidenced by the whole B&B debacle. Mérida was showing us the love and we consciously decided to just go with the flow for as long as it lasted.

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The next thing we knew, we were involved in writing the book, Living in Mérida

, for Mérida Verde, a non-profit, and we were, in the Mérida gringo society, minor celebrities for a time, attending book signings and high society parties where our common Minnesota roots only increased our allure to the gringo elite.

Through these associations we entered into an agreement with Harley and Myrna from SF to house-sit the small hotel of a house that we call home, now. And we are working stiffs again. If you can call it work, sitting at our computers poolside. But we are putting in six hours a day now and we actually have an income which has made our old business plan of miserly spend down and living like paupers (with suntans), obsolete.

In fact I did a cash flow analysis of our situation now compared to our old conventional lives in Minnesota and came to a startling conclusion. But first, this is how I did it: I took our old income, net after taxes (our ICUC income down here is exempt from taxes according to IRS section 911) and subtracted our mortgage pmt, our car expenses, our life insurance premiums (we cashed in our life insurance when we came down here – we’re told old for life insurance), health insurance (we can afford to be without down here), the premium we paid for entertainment and groceries in the States, and finally utilities (we pay none in our house-sitting agreement) Then I added up our projected ICUC income and added the positive cash flow from the lease of our St. Cloud house and you know what I found? Annually, we are about $3500 ahead of what we were in our old lives and we live in paradise. This kind of math can make you feel pretty good for awhile.

But we have painted ourselves into a corner. This happy equation only works down here. We love it here but we won’t be here forever. Two of our kids are getting married next summer (Congrats Helen and Sammy!) and you know how it goes: First comes love, then comes marriage, then comes….. And there is no way we will be able to keep Mary out of the US when grand babies come.

Most of the equation for transitioning back will not be that difficult but the one real hurdle will be health insurance. Self employed as a contractor for ICUC I cannot afford $1500+ monthly health insurance premiums, if I can even get

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Unstoppable movie The Big Nothing move insurance with a heart attack in my history. Back in Minnesota, despite being the gambler that I am, I will not roll the dice on going without health insurance. So here’s hoping there is real health care reform before we come back. I could go on a campaign here but I won’t, I will just say the whole rest of the western world (including México) has universal health care, why don’t we? And for those of you that call that socialism, I ask what do you call the public school system? We have a fundamental right to education but not health? I hope the US gets its act together because health care really is a deal breaker for many, many Americans.

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. Wow that was a bit of a surprise, Bruce’s health care rant! Well it seems many people have strong feelings on both sides of that issue. Let’s hope everyone works together for what is best for all. And feel free to express your opinions via the comments queue. Hasta Luego!

June 12th, 2009

The 2009 May 17th Celebration

Mary and Anton at May 17th

Mary and Anton at May 17th

May 17th or as it is commonly called, “Mary Dahle Day” is approaching. Bruce’s dear wife Mary has the very Norwegian maiden name of Dahle and as the celebration predates any Bruce involvement that is how the day is also known. This is May 17th

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Neither Bruce nor Mary appreciates being The New Guy film dated but this has been, amongst their circle, one of the high times

of the year for many years. The motivation for the original May 17th remains shrouded in mist. It is said that Mary had her “moment of Zen” that auspicious May 17th years ago and legend says only two others were witness to the original May 17th : Deb R. and Kevin G. But all we can do is take their words for it, because there is no written historical document. Mary makes no comment on the matter preferring rather, to simply have the day stand for a celebration of life, family, friends, and food. Well anyhow, please join Bruce and Mary as they land at Lindbergh International in Minneapolis.

We’d decided to pay about a $400 dollar premium to fly directly out of Mérida instead of doing the bus thing to Cancun. We have really come to hate that four hour bus ride through the low scrub jungle that makes ND scenery look exciting and diverse. We’re at the baggage carousel looking for our one huge blue bag and our close friend Kevin D. appears. He’s looking trim and healthy and I tell him so. Today is Monday, May 18th and the party day is this Saturday, May 23rd.

We have fun getting caught up with Kevin as he maneuvers his Suburban in and out of Minneapolis traffic on the way to Foley where we will be staying with my mother Margaret for the first week of our vacation. That is how we have come to regard our visits to MN. We live and work in Mérida, MX and we vacation in MN.

My Ma welcomes us with hugs and we all take to the deck for beers on this beautiful MN May day. I break out a couple of Cubanos puros, cigars, for Kevin and me and we toast ourselves. Life is good.

Tuesday dawns bright and cool but it quickly heats up as we run around St. Cloud on this, our “errands” day. First on the schedule is a visit to KLN, the computer company in which my late brother Neil was a partner. We get caught up with Larry and George, the other two partners and with Dave a loyal tech of 12 years. George had told me just a week ago that our storage unit at their RV storage facility, in back of their offices, is going away. Neil had given us one of the few personal units, but now they will be knocking those down to make way for more RV storage. This presents an unplanned challenge. We get the key from George and take a look at our 6’ x 12’ by about 16 foot high unit. It looks manageable. We had dispersed some stuff on our last visit.

Next on the schedule is a visit to TCF bank where we are closing our account. The young man we sit with apologizes all over himself until I tell him to stop. It is not his fault that a customer can no longer call this bank and talk to his own personal banker but must dial up a call center, in St. Louis, and wait on hold until some young pup, after wasting 20 minutes of your time, informs you a supervisor must get involved to solve your problem.

And now it is new computer time, Mary’s old IBM needs to be retired. Mary’s best friend in life, Deb R. had already run a “matrix” to select her new laptop so we just do what she did, go to Office Max, buy an HP Presario, and with a few other options it comes to $730.

We’re on a roll now as we book to Coborn’s in Sartell for some May 17th

groceries. Along the way Mary calls “back door Judy” our close friend and back yard neighbor which is what I meant to say when I first introduced her to Neil. You can imagine how the “back door” thing played. We meet at G Allens restaurant in Sartell and Judy’s husband Pete is there, as well. He’d taken the afternoon off from his  store, J.F. Kruse Jewelers. It’s a fun-filled two hour wet lunch and, unbelievably, they want to pick up the check. I finally win out by saying, “We’re buying for three reasons, one – You’re hosting Friday night happy hour (traditionally this has been a Neil gig), two – you’re letting us borrow your portable BB hoop again, and three – you’re letting us borrow your PU for this whole week!” With fond farewells until Friday we head out with Pete’s Ford PU to start our storage dump.

The theme of the next three days is storage runs and party prep. Wednesday our youngest Joey brings up our daughter Helen to join us at ma’s place for party prep and we hear of the tragic death of one of her inner circle, Dennis Dumm. It is ironic that I had seen the headline, “Bicyclist Crushed in Downtown Minneapolis” online this very morning, but hadn’t read the story. Helen is devastated but bucks up and has since, with help, started a Facebook event promoting sane bicyclist regulations in Minneapolis.

Thursday is take our possessions to Henry’s Auction house day and Joey has volunteered to cruise up from his home in Rogers to help with that as well. It is a very emotional day for Mary as she is very attached to our stuff but we have nowhere to store it and it isn’t worth renting a unit. She does agree with what our friend Kevin said, “If you have to set up a household again you can probably get it all from Craig’s List for what you’ll get for your stuff.” My sister Cheryl, a professor  at the U of MO, has driven up from Columbia to join us this afternoon and she claims some of our old video VHS tapes. She doesn’t have a cell phone yet, or ever will, she says.

Friday is intense party prep for Mary and Helen and a motherly “honey-do day” for me, but it is interrupted at midday by a call for Helen. Her ride to Alexandria for the reviewal and funeral has changed from this evening to right now and Mary runs her out to the interstate for that rendezvous. So at 5:00 I head over to Judy’s for happy hour sans Mary who, without Helen’s help is really behind the 8 ball and she is too freaked out to take the time even for this tradition.

Andy, Judy, Bruce Smoking Cubanos

Andy, Judy, Bruce Smoking Cubanos

I arrive at Pete and Judy’s, returning their pickup, precisely at 5 and I see I am the first to arrive, other than son Joey who has never been late to a party in his life. Judy has set out a great assortment of appetizers, the chief of which is venison sausage. She has this all set up on her patio out the kitchen door and facing our leased-out house across the yard. It is a little weird to be partying with our house, someone else’s home, in the background. Eli, my football player nephew shows up and we quickly organize a group to load the hoop onto Kevin’s trailer. You see, unlike most portable BB hoops the base of this one is not filled with water, but sand. I had told Eli that it weighs, literally, at least 400#. After we and three others heave the thing onto the trailer, he does not argue.

The weather has been holding all week and this evening it is sunny and warm, a lucky break for Minnesota in May and the prediction for tomorrow is the same. The usual suspects are on hand, including Brad and Amy, Neil’s best friends. Everyone is taking it easy, conserving energy for the big day tomorrow.

Saturday dawns bright and we are elated that the weatherman has come through for us as we have had previous

May 17ths in sleet. Mary and I start filling coolers and loading them into ma’s Buick Century. We stop at  Coborn’s grocery for fresh produce on the way and we are at Kevin and Rosie’s at exactly 10. Eli is right behind me and at 10:30 Joey appears with a portion of his gang so we do what ends up being a controlled drop of the hoop onto Kevin’s driveway, but no damage is done,  to person or property. Then with me at the helm and Joey and the gang in attendance we take Kevin’s suburban and trailer to the rental place where we are

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lucky enough to get a pink portapotty.

Shortly after getting back some of the older, that is our generation starts showing. From our hometown of Princeton come Bonnie, Mary Fran (her husband Ike motorcycles over later) and Mary’s best friend, Deb R. And a surprise entrance is made by Anton of Boulder, Bonnie’s son who grew up with our kids. Sammy, our oldest and just in from NH, runs with arms flailing, screaming “Antoooooooon” to give him a big hug.

It’s noon and usually the official start of May 17th but Helen is not back from Alex yet so Mary delays on setting out the food but it is time to let the games begin. Kevin has a huge backyard with horseshoe pits, so in addition to the hoops and shoes, there is a badminton setup and the kids are also  playing some goofy game of knocking a beer can off a stick with a Frisbee. I don’t know this game’s name, if it has one. I enlist Bonnie to take on Kevin and Drew (of Joey and the gang fame) in

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Bonnie and Drew

Bonnie and Drew

other crap at our pit, Drew, evidently, just can’t help himself and is applying his wiles to Bonnie because about midgame Bonnie beckons me and meeting her half way and she says to me, “Where did you find this kid? He’s hitting on me, this old lady hasn’t felt like this since15!” I laugh and give a thumbs up to Drew.

There is a steady stream of people arriving now and Mary decides to start serving food about 1:30 and again it is another gastronomic delight. Mary and her serving crew of Rosie, Judy, Sam’s Annah, Joey’s Meryah and their roommate Lauren set out about 20 dishes ranging from Porketta to vegan potato salad to spring rolls with peanut sauce. Everyone dives in.

Helen and fiancé Caleb arrive about 2:00 and immediately everyone gathers around her and our immediate family for the Neil tribute which she conducts. Originally this was planned for our traditional noon start when only intimates are present but now there are easily 30 people in the circle but Helen does a terrific job with her theme being May 17th has been more of a sharing time for our family than even Christmas and with that being the case Neil has always been the May 17th Santa Claus. Some of us tell Neil stories and Helen makes sure to reference his famous farts. Then we gather around an ash tree and at the base Mary pours out a can of MGD, Neil’s favorite beer and my sister Cheryl empties a small container of Neil’s ashes and the Tribute is over.

Newlyweds Robert and Lynn

Newlyweds Robert and Lynn

Our close friends and newlyweds Robert and Lynn make the scene so Mary and I quickly grab our gift bag containing matching Mérida Safari hats, a Living in Mérida book, and a bottle of Xtabentun, a Mayan liqueur. They are practically glowing in their newfound marital bliss.

As I am watching the kids warm up for BB, I get my surprise visit. I see strolling across the road my good friend Tim with whom I had left several Skype voice mails with no response. I knew that Tim had

survived his stint amongst the Jack Pine savages of Deerwood, MN and had moved to Menomonie, WI but did not know that he had bettered his standard of living somewhat, having moved out of his sister’s extension cord powered attic. I am happy for him. He is rightly proud to be a Menomonite as there is always some bar there serving buck beers.

As we’re getting caught up I see a couple of familiar cars pull up. It is my dream team! I had been cocking off on the May 17th Rules of Engagement movie evite that this Near Dark divx year, the old guys were going to beat the kids in BB which hasn’t happened in many a moon. But I wasn’t sure my Alexandria ringers would actually make it. I most

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enthusiastically greet my dream team and their wives: Dave and Bev, Scott and Sue, and Darrin and Kathy. Scott, in his youth was a starting DII shooting guard and still plays pickup BB every noon hour at the rec. Dave is a 6’2” great all around athlete and Darrin is a 250# former semi pro rugby player. I think we’ll put him in the low post. After we get settled and get a few beers in our bellies the kids give us the court for warm-ups. Darrin is not feeling so fleet of foot with his sandals, but we just need him to take up space down there against Sam’s best friend, 220# personal trainer Pete. The game begins and it is a hard fought 4 on 4. Sammy’s college roommate Bryan (who will get his 10 yr pin next year) has his hands full with Scott and we win 11-9 by virtue of his three long bombs in row. There’s high fives all around and the kids want a rematch but we’re too busy

Scott, Darrin, Dave, and Bruce - We are the Champions!

Scott, Darrin, Dave, and Bruce - We are the Champions!

celebrating. Mary takes team pix of us as I am singing “We are the Champions” at the top of my lungs. The kids are depressed because they, led by Sam, cannot talk my team into a rematch. It is small consolation to Sam, my promise of a best of three next May 17th, as he will have to listen to my crowing for a full year.

The party progresses and in the late afternoon I see my dream team off as well as my old friend and partner Deb, who had driven over in her new Lotus. Menomonie Tim and Neil’s best friend Brad join me and it is Brad’s bright idea to see what it would be like to sit in the driver’s seat of the Lotus. We all take turns and we all have to be helped out, causing near hysterical laughter from Deb.

It’s time for Brad and Amy to leave and as is our custom Brad and I kiss each other full on the lips. This is not as much  fun as it used to be, as the shock value has diminished considerably.

The setting sun finds Kevin tuning up his professional sound system for patio dancing. At full dark someone lights a fire in Kevin’s awesome paver surrounded fire pit. I wander from group to group and start to make my way towards the fire pit where I see my friend Tim sitting and I realize that I probably cannot make my tongue move fast enough to keep up with his banter. I head the other way towards our bedroom in the basement noting that it is 1:30 and none too early to be hitting the sack.

I awake, sprawled across the bed with all my clothes on and Mary is curled up next to me, attired similarly. We groggily roll out, feeling much better than we deserve. Upstairs we find Tim, who’d slept under the 40° stars and Helen, both making claim that they were the first ones up. I scoop some leftover potato salad into my mouth for some healthy breakfast nourishment and get to work in cleaning up Kevin and Rosie’s house, garage, and yard. I find Lauren has nearly finished with the garage and when I turn the corner to the back yard I see a tent city. I count 11 tents in the back corner of the yard. Only a few have rousted. Quickly the cleanup is done and it time to do what I have been avoiding until now. And I do see enough manpower to do it; load the hoop. I gather the five of us that this requires. One of Helen’s buddies, a short, slight guy helps with me in the front and we heave it onto Kevin’s trailer. I am impressed with this little guy and tell him, “You’re a lot stronger than you look!” which does not come off as near the compliment I intended. Right exactly then, with impeccable timing Joey shows up and he has felt better. Next we load Neil’s famous picnic table for transport back to Drew’s place for safekeeping and I pick my accomplices for this: Joey, Sammy and their three biggest friends. These duties go well but with another scary “controlled drop” once more, at Pete and Judy’s. Luckily, once

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again, no damage done. We gas and return Kevin’s Suburban and trailer and once back I encourage the partiers to vacate the premises. Kevin has been a great host, but I’m quite sure he is anxious to have his house back. Everyone is invited to Drew’s house for the traditional “Damage Assessment” that follows every May 17

Lords of Dogtown download th The Art of Self Defense full movie . At Neil’s picnic table we drink beer and regale each other with tales of the prior day. Late in the afternoon with fond farewells we all head our separate ways, many of us not to see each other again until next May 17th.

The rest of our visit back to Minnesota is split between Mary’s mother’s house in Princeton, Joey’s house in Rogers, and a lot of time at the family cabin near Lake Mille Lacs, which has recently been remodeled into a modern house while retaining the charm of the log cabin that it is.

It’s getaway day, Sunday, May 31st, and I am up at sunrise

on this gorgeous day. Captive Lake is without a ripple and there is not a cloud in the sky. With Joey, I smoke a cigar on the deck overlooking the lake and while sipping  a Bloody Mary I think that this is near to paradise and wouldn’t it be perfect to summer here, but that is not in the cards.

After breakfast, Helen and Caleb haul us to Lindbergh Intl and amidst hugs and kisses we are off, back to our home in México.

Whoa, that was the longest post yet, so an extra hearty thanks is bestowed upon you, gentle reader, for hanging in there. Bruce and Mary are now settled into their Mérida routine, minding the monster house that they are house-sitting and working nearly every day, much to their satisfaction. As always, Bruce appreciates any and all feedback. Hasta pronto.

February 17th, 2009

Thanksgiving Day, Mexican Style

Bruce, Dave, Aaron, Jun, and Lulu at Dzilbilchaltun

Bruce, Dave, Aaron, Jun, and Lulu at Dzilbilchaltun

Bruce and Mary are still succeeding in their escape to México. The current equation is Bruce’s personal training income plus Mary’s one day at the beach in Progreso working for their friend, Jaromey, the property manager, minus zero for housing as they have established a niche house sitting. Join them this day as they celebrate Thanksgiving, Mexican style.

 

 

 

 

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Day dawns bright on this Thanksgiving Day in Mérida and it will be warm, the predicted high is around 88, and the sky is perfectly clear. We had signed up for a CIS trip to Dzibilchaltun just a few kilometers north of town because we wanted to distract ourselves, this being the first T-day ever spent without family. Before we leave Mary does call our three grown kids, her mother, sister, and brother on Skype. And it is Niagara Falls. We are glad to know that two of our three kids will be at my ma’s place as the gathering has been growing sparse, with the loss of two of my brothers this past year.

 

It’s time to head out the door of our vacation house (actually Jana’s vacation house download The Dukes of Hazzard: Reunion! ) and stroll to the cocina economica just around the corner. We have breakfast, huevos motulenos, and we order three jamon y queso, ham and cheese, sandwiches for our outing. The breakfast is delicious. We settle up and grab our sandwiches and walk the block to CIS.

 

CIS A American Crimen buy offers outings every Thursday for their students and teachers and even though Mary doesn’t teach English there anymore, Jose Luis, the wonderful young man who runs this branch of CIS has insisted that Mary and I are always invited to these outings. Finally we taking him up on it. There are five of us plus Lulu a teacher who will act as guide on this trip. As we mill about two taxis pull up and Lulu, Mary, Jun a young Japanese man, and I jump in one of the taxis and off we go. Lulu is very outgoing giving Mary a good chance to practice her Spanish. As the taxi zips in and out of traffic to Dzibilchaltun I see the meter running and I wonder, being the cheap sucker I am, who is paying for the fare. We’d understood we were only responsible for the entrance fee. The meter tops 100P just as we pull up to the gate and Lulu quickly gets out money to pay this taxi and the one behind us. We introduce ourselves to Dave from England and Aaron from Portland. Dave is about our age, 50s, recently early retired from the computer business and Aaron is late 30s and a city worker. They’re both here on their own. Aaron is visiting for 2 ½ weeks and Dave is here for as long as he likes it.

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We each pay the 76P entrance fee and off we march. We start with Dzibilchaltun’s very modern museum. I’m not much of a culture guy but this is the best museum I’ve ever been in and I am actually quite entertained. There are artifacts and artworks and the stories of all the people who figure into the history of the Yucatan, including Europeans and Chinese, not just the Maya, who of course are the original inhabitants and still comprise 60% of the population of the Yucatan peninsula.

 

Out the back door of the museum Lulu leads us to a Maya house which is actually a couple of thatched huts. One is the living room, sleeping quarters and the other is the kitchen and el baño, naturally. From here we trek up to the main temple, The Temple of the Seven Dolls, which is rather modest, I’m sorry to say. Sleepy little Xcambo Deadwater download , which doesn’t even charge an entry fee has a more impressive temple. The claim to fame for this structure is that at the equinoxes the dawning sun is framed through the gateway at the apex of the temple, and people for many miles around come to view this twice per year event.

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After the main temple we walk the central road by other ruins and through the ubiquitous ball park, common to all Maya ruins, on the way to the cenote.

 

We brought our swim suits along, just so we could brag to our friends up north that we had swum in a cenote on Thanksgiving Day. There is no changing room of course so Mary and I wander a little ways from the crowd and use a towel for a screen to make our quick change, which is quite exciting for Mary when a corner of the towel slips from my grip. Luckily for me, no one is looking in our direction at this moment.

 

We walk down to the cenote’s rocky edge and are a little surprised to see that one end of it is choked with water lilies. The other end is clear, which must be the part of the cenote that sinks to 140’ below ground level. The Yucatan, geologically, is a honeycombed limestone shelf that is actually an ancient coral reef. There are virtually no rivers in the Yucatan but plenty of water beneath the surface of the limestone rock. Where these subterrainian waters breach the surface you have a cenote.

 

We dive into the deep end and find it a remarkable experience due to the warmth and clarity of the water and the buoyancy which I can’t explain because this is fresh water. We both splash around for a bit among mostly locals and then somewhat painfully lever ourselves back onto the rocky ledge.  Our new Japanese friend Jun is quite brave in that with very little command of Español, he convinces one of the locals to loan him his snorkeling gear. Good for him.

 

Toweled off we grab our clothes which Aaron had been safeguarding and this time, since I am not to be trusted, we duck around the corner of a ruin hoping no one rounds that corner for a minute. No problema this time.

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We return to the gate where a 25 passenger bus is waiting to take us back. Our group is first on so we make easy boarding for the other passengers by seating ourselves in the back of the bus. The bus fills up with a group of young people we assume are locals. Dave, fluent in Español, and a naturally friendly guy starts chatting up the man sitting next to him and discovers that he is the leader of this musical group, Tonos Humanos, which is currently in Mérida on tour.

 

This wonderful Columbian folklorico, folkmusic, troupe proceeds to serenade us with some of the most haunting and beautiful music, sung a capella, that I have ever heard. Boat Trip movie

 

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Too soon, the bus reaches Calle 49, our stop, and as we say goodbye to all, the leader of the group tells Dave that we should come to their performance tomorrow at Teatro Daniel Ayala, a major venue in Mérida. Dave says, “Now we don’t have to!” Everyone laughs good naturedly.

 

Mary and I with our new friends Dave and Aaron walk the few blocks to our watering hole, La Gran Lucha, The Grand Fight, to have a couple brews and celebrate a most unusual and satisfying Thanksgiving Day.

 

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. Please check back soon as Bruce gets this blog up to real time, real soon. Bruce loves comments so don’t be shy. Hasta luego!

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December 15th, 2008

Transition to Merida

Mary and Fernando in our Merida Apartment
Mary and Fernando in our Merida Apartment

Bruce and Mary have put their big plans of buying a B&B on hold for a bit to get down to the business of making their move into Mérida, where the cost of living is much less. Their month of decompression at the beach has come to an end.

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It is time to get down to the nitty gritty of getting an apartment lined up in Mérida as our month at the beachside condo is coming to a close. We had called Fernando, the Mérida landlord and abogado

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, lawyer, we had met through our crazy Canadian friends, Jerry and Jasmine, and make an appointment to view an apartment on Calle 59. This is in a great location, right in the middle of gringo gulch and close to La Plaza Grande, the heart of downtown. This was the apartment that Jerry and Jasmine had stayed in while waiting for their house to close.

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We took the Progreso bus into town and legged it to the apartment where we had scheduled an 11:30 meeting with Fernando. We’re a little early so we checked out the Grand French hotel, La Residencial across the street. We’re a little bummed that we can’t afford more than a one bedroom flat, so we wanted to check out nearby hotels for rates for visiting friends and relatives. The lobby is quite impressive in a French colonial way and we see that the rates are 872P per night, about $85US at present exchanges. This is a little pricey for our needs. We crossed the street back to the apartment and presently Fernando arrived, at 12:10, precisely on time, Mexican time, that is.

 

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While Fernando gave Mary a detailed tour of the place I fired up my laptop to see if there might be some stray wifi signals that I would be able to tap into and I am pleased to see signals from La Residencial hotel we’d just visited. Hmm, this might solve the internet question quite nicely for us.

 

I joined Mary and Fernando on the tour. The telephone is 180P per month, the electricity will run about 200-300P every two months and garbage collection is free. Fernando then showed us the back garage area which houses our common washer and dryer and storage area. It even has separate outlets for the washer so the juice gets charged to us or our new neighbor Violet.

 

Everything was as we remembered from our visit with Jerry and Jasmine when they lived here and we liked it then so we want to seal the deal. Fernando has already told us that he doesn’t care if we pay 3000P or $300US for the rent or deposit so I take advantage of the exchange and pay him 3000P to seal the deal, saving about $12 on that day’s exchange rate. In retrospect, Fernando who we will discover through our dealings with him, may possibly be the nicest man on earth, would have put our name on the apartment on a handshake. But given the cash, Fernando counted it out carefully, shook our hands and when I didn’t get a receipt, I asked for one. What little Ingles Fernando knew quickly went away. I had Mary try to ask in Espanol, a couple times. It became clear that a receipt would not be forthcoming, but I kept bugging Mary about it. Finally she said heatedly, “Give it up for Chrissakes, he’s a lawyer!”  I desisted, a handshake would do.

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Done with business, Fernando took us on a tour of that part of town and then dropped us off at La Flor de Santiago restaurant, which he recommended as nice but not pricy.  We had a bite and then we caught the Progreso bus home, happy to have lined up our new home in la corazon de Mérida, heart of Mérida.

 

The last couple of days at the beach we strolled the shoreline, had Tom and Pam from Spokane over for dinner, complained with Justo about inconsistent Mexican prices and generally flat-lined our blood pressure readings. download Demolition Man

 

Get away day dawns bright but I’m feeling a little sluggish; I taught Tom how to sip tequila last night. We have a quick breakfast and start packing our meager belongings. Jaromey is due at 10:30 for exit inspection and having business in the city she has volunteered to haul us and our stuff to our new apartment. We’re done a little early and with our gear we are sitting in the shade, it’s going to be a hot one today. There’s only a couple cars in the parking lot, just a handful of the 20 some condos are occupied but we hear from Tom and Pam, later, that by this evening the parking lot will be full and the party will go all night. We did not realize that this Friday is the start of Semana Santa The Northern Kingdom dvd , Easter, when Mexicans party their hearts out for two solid weeks. We left in the nick of time, considering we like to sleep for a least a portion of the night.

 

Jaromey arrives and the inspection goes off without a hitch. On the way we chat and it seems that Jaromey has a lot of properties she manages and Mary, jokingly, tells her to give her a call if she ever needs help. Little did we know then, how that would turn out.

 

We arrive at our apartment and quickly get our gear into our new home and invite Jaromey to lunch at La Residencial across the street. We are seated and the first thing I do is ask the server for the security key for the wifi. I fire up my laptop and I am online very quickly. I shut it down right away, very happy to be in possession of the code. We have a light lunch and we entertain each other with tales from back home. Jaromey tells us that she is trying to talk her 19 year old into joining the Canadian Navy. When I ask why she would want her son to be in the service she says, “Well it isn’t all that risky, we only have three ships!” That caught me off guard and I enjoy a belly laugh. Saturday Night Fever video

 

After lunch we give her a short tour of our cozy little apartment and see her off. Then we call Fernando and he is right over to whisk us to his office to make this rental agreement official. He makes copies of our passports and visas, does a little bit of internal paperwork, and informs us that he would like 2 weeks notice whenever we would move and that is it. I don’t get a receipt for the cash payment and after looking at Mary, I don’t ask.

 

Fernando ferries us back to our new home and we see we have a voice message on our $10 Mexican cell we had left behind. It is Jasmine, asking us to happy hour at their place. We like the sound of this, it’s like our lives will be getting some rhythm back with regular Friday night happy hours. I remember where they live, a few blocks away, from Fernando pointing out their casa on our mini-tour, so we waltz on over, picking up a couple six packs of Tecate at a San Francisco chain grocery store along the way. We are met at the door by a shirtless Jerry and ushered back to the pool where we find Jasmine, looking as good as a 59 year old possibly can in a skimpy bikini. She sees where my eyes track and she volunteers, “No, they’re not real, honey.” We relax at pool’s edge with beers in hand and start exchanging stories. We are officially settled into Mérida.

 

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