setfreeinmexico.com

We’d been nagging Kevin and Shelly for a visit for some time and then we were lucky enough to have the happy confluence of Mary and Bill (fulfilling an open invite) teaming up with them. So in mid-March a big part of the old gang descended upon us. Here is that tale:

Mary and I have been parked in our beach chairs on the sidewalk, sipping Margaritas and beers, with our boom box flooding onto busy Calle 47 for about 2 hrs now. The sun has slipped away and we’re starting to wonder about Bill and Mary and their rental car. Suddenly we see a couple of tall silhouettes round the corner and here they are!

Bill says, “We’ve been within blocks of your place for over two flipping hours! I thought you lived in a residential area?!” Mary J gives us hugs and kisses as Bill sputters over my definition of a residential area in a Spanish Colonial city contrasted to the spacious front lawns of small town MN. But a couple beers later he is quite mollified. We take them back to the spare suite and then on the tour and they, like everyone before them, are amazed by the scale of the place.

After settling in we gather at the patio table on the promenade and Mary and I hustle botanas out from the kitchen for our starving friends, who have had nothing but pretzels since breakfast. We hear some more of their transit from Cancun, how they left the expressway for a two lane which added an extra 1 ½ hr and shunted them back to the toll road just in time for all the tolls. After I responded for the second or third time, “Well, Bill I wouldn’t really know about that, we’ve always taken the bus” Bill finally allowed that maybe he should have talked to us about the Cancun to Mérida trip, prior to booking the car but that arrangement had always worked well on their trips to Akumal on the Riviera Maya coast.

We party until the wee hours before we’re off to bed. Mary is not on duty tomorrow, I am but my shift is not until 10AM.

It’s Wednesday and another Norte has blown in, it is uncharacteristically cool, mid 60s and breezy. Mary makes us breakfast and then I log into work. Bill looks over my shoulder, curious about our online moderation jobs. I am happy to show off a little as I go through a number of my duties. Despite the fact that they don’t own a computer, (although Mary J did just recently install one at her chiropractic practice) or even a cell phone (they do have a microwave) Bill picks up the nuances of my job very quickly.

Mary wants to show them a little of our neighborhood so they take a walk up Paseo, the Champs de Élysées of México (I know, I say this every time) and stop in at La Sorbeteria for some fancy flavored sorbets. On their stroll, B&M change some money and on the way back Mary takes them to Issteys, the gov’t grocery store to restock supplies, mostly beer. Back home I am logging off. It’s still cool but the sun is out so we go up to the sun deck and catch some rays and watch the workers next door lay block on a project that looks as if it may rival our small palace. Bill a renowned wood carver who teaches his craft at the American Swedish Institute in Minneapolis, tells some great stories about his trip to Sweden and about other crazy artist associates of his.

Time for some grub so we take B&M to El Lucero our “nice” local watering hole (as opposed to our local cantinas) and we sit out in the palapa addition where there is a trova band playing. Mary buys a tune and Mary J is so entranced with everything about this place from the second level jungle gym for patrons’ kids, to the music, and especially to the free botanas of tacos, chorizo, ceviche, etc. Mary J just can’t get over the fact that for buying a couple of beers they keep this food coming until you say, “No mas.”

Back at the house the Marys hit the sack. Both Mary and I work tomorrow, but that doesn’t keep me and Bill from doing “one more”s until the wee hours once again.

Thursday dawns bright for a change, I am getting tired of all these nortes, it’s unnatural. Mary is already logged in when I head to the kitchen to make breakfast for everyone (second breakfast for Mary) which consists of fruits and fancy breads that Mary had picked up. I go on the roof for my karate as Bill and Mary J make their way to the kitchen for coffee and grub. While we’re working Bill goes on a walkabout and Mary J suns herself poolside and reads. After Mary logs off at noon, they all head in the car to Walmart for a beer restock and then, when I am off we walk up to La Plaza Grande. On the way I buy some Cohibas from a street vendor. I get him down to 180P for a box of 5 Esplendidos and when I give him a 200P note, he drops a couple of centavos in my hand and practically sprints out of there. After living here for two years I know my Mx coins better than I remember nickels and dimes and I holler after him but he is gone. I’m considering taking off after him for the 13P he shortchanged me until Mary grabs me and reminds me that I still got them cheaper than my usual store. Right.

I walk another block up and go to the second level of La Plaza Seranata (Kevin and Rosie’s favorite Mérida

restaurant) and grab a balcony table overlooking La Plaza Grande and it is a stunning view. Bill and Mary J treat us to a meal of tacos al pastor, crema de elotes, and Burritos al pastor for Bill and Mary J and many cervezas. I light up my Cohiba to share with  the Marys and it doesn’t get any better.

Back at the house we have just enough time for one beer before Bill and I head to the airport to pick up Kevin and Shelly. I ride shotgun in the rental and guide Bill on a short cut, sort of, we overshoot Calle 59A and have to backtrack a few blocks but we do get to the airport in about 15 minutes. Bill is whiteknuckling, it’s pretty obvious he is not enjoying driving, at night, in this Mexican city full of one-ways. Bill drops me off at the main entrance of this very small International Airport and right inside of the entrance I spot Kevin and Shelly. We all embrace and head out the door with their luggage and I lead us to the left to save a little time on Bill’s next loop and there he is, all 6’6” of him, hunched over the steering wheel of his compact rental, staring straight ahead and driving right on by but taking a quick peek when he is opposite the main doors. Kevin and I  had been jumping up and down and hollering trying to get his attention but having failed we bust our butts laughing. A few minutes later on the next loop Bill does espy us and we give him crap about his tunnel vision all the way back to the house.

Mary is prepared for us and after a quick tour and a how-to for their bedroom, the master, we all sit down on the promenade to eat, drink, and get caught up.

Holy Mackerel, it’s Friday morning and I have slept in until 11! I haven’t slept that late in years. Everyone else is up and Mary has a scrambled eggs breakfast ready to go. Then we’re all out to the patio. Kevin and Shelly grab beers out of the cooler and Kevin offer me one. “Sorry,” I say, “I have a rule that I don’t start drinking until I am out of my jammies.”

Eventually I am street worthy and I volunteer to be the Marys mule as they go to restock along with a few other things, beer. We seem to be going through it at an impressive rate.

On the way to Issteys we stop in at Mary’s coffee bean place, Cafico, and Mary J has the treat of seeing the Cuban beans dumped directly out of a gunny sack into a giant stainless steel grinder which takes about 5 minutes to grind up her ½ kilo (85P, Mary J’s treat). At Issteys I load up my beer bag and it’s a long 3 ½ blocks back to the house.

To be frank the weekend is somewhat of a blur but it went something like this: Friday evening we all went to El Luceros for their free mariscos, seafood buffet and they had a fun two piece band that we danced to. Bill and Mary J can cut a rug pretty well.

Saturday was beach day and Kevin and Bill are moving a little slowly having reminisced a little later than anyone else the previous night. We bused to the beach and it was a sunny day, warm but not hot. We situated ourselves on the beach on our big beach towel and portable chairs. I grabbed a couple of Superior megas (1200mg litros) and lit my Cohiba and my, what a lovely day it was. Kevin is still moving a little slowly but a

couple beers brought back the Kevin  we all know and love. We had intended to catch a bite at one of the seaside restaurants but the day slipped away from us and Kevin and I wanted to go to the ballgame.

We hopped a bus and quickly cleaned up and the four of us, (minus Bill and Mary J who hung back) and grabbed a $4 taxi ride to Kulculcan Estadio with just enough time for a sandwich and a beer before opening pitch. It was a battle of crafty lefties with our Leones finally breaking out in the 5^th with a 3 run shot. Delivered, I think by one of the many MLB has-beens that Kevin recognized. The Leones added single runs in the 6^th and 7^th and that was good enough for us as the hard plastic seats had taken their toll. We taxied back home.

Sunday was the mandatory Mérida in Domingo and we took the gang on the walk downtown stopping at La Trapiche, our favorite breakfast place. All 6 of us get stuffed and have drinks and coffee and Bill is amazed that the ticket was only a little over 300P about $25. That’s one of the many reasons we love México! Then with stops for shopping in tiendas along Calle 62, we made our way to La Plaza Grande which was filled with vendors of all kinds, as it always is for Merida en Domingo. Then I led our troupe to Lucas de Galvez one of the largest mercados in the world and I am pretty proud of myself that I could lead them into and out of this maze without getting lost. I made sure the tour included a march through the fish market prep area just to gross everyone out.

Back home Bill did a helluva job BBQing the Arrachera steak/roast that Mary had picked up at Pacsadeli. It was excellent but Mary beat herself up for not having procured enough. Although lean, this rather impressive chunk of meat cooked down a lot. But there were plenty of sides. Then we retired to the promenade and started telling stories from the HFA (Hearts Federation of America) days, our old softball days as “The Pinebrook Inn Unkies” (we had more covert ways of drinking in the dugout than gloves) and I made the mistake of remembering what a great combination the Mayan liqueur Xtabentun and 100 Años Tequila make and Kevin remembered his love of Don Julio and the night did stretch out.

And that is the weekend to the best of my recollection, I swear!

Monday is visa renewal day for us so we’re up before anyone and we head up to IMS to do that routine. Back home we find everyone, everyone except Kevin of course who’s reading in the front room, cleaning and sweeping. Then they all head up to the museum while Mary and I mop the promenade. At one point Mary shakes her fist at the construction workers next door and says, “No mas polvo!” They just grin at her. Just as we’re done the gang is back to report that the museum doesn’t open on Monday, so…let’s have a beer! Mary gets some botanitas out and that is exactly what we do. The girls sun themselves while Kevin shows me his 2010 Baseball Prospects book which is pretty cool. Bill heads up to collect his Dia de las Muertos stamped tin door topper that he spotted the other day at a cool shop on calle 54 while Kevin and I talk BB. Around 4 or so we hit the street to make our way to the combi stop at calles 56 and 59. With our group the 12 passenger van is filled and we head out directly.

We’re greeted at the door of the Xcanatun dining room by the ever gracious staff and we lead our party past the baby grand piano in the lounge to the patio. We love showing this place off to guests. This converted hennequen hacienda is one of the top boutique hotels in Mexico and its restaurant, IMHO, is the finest in Mérida and yes we have been to Nectar. The view of the grounds and gardens dominated by the ancient Royal Palms brings the desired effect upon our friends. We start off with beers for Bill and Mary, a Piña Colada for Mary J and wine for Kevin, Shelly, and me. They have the white house wine which they find to be a good, decent house wine. When they order their steaks they sample my red and they find it, being amateur wine connoisseurs, quite up to the task and they order a carafe. I find it quite fascinating, their wine critiques, being a guy who only knows that he likes it red and not too dry. Kevin has been referring to my box wine, our house wine, as “Ripple” all week.  Our food comes, Kevin and Shelly have the medallion wrapped in bacon, Mary has the Tamarind Chicken, Bill has the Yucatecan Shrimp, Mary J has the Tuna steak, and I have Loin of fish. Our meals are great as usual although Shelly and Kevin’s steak was a little rarer than they prefer although they take the hit on that as the menu, as in most fine dining establishments, I understand,  has a key of about 6 levels of “doneness” and they should have specified one level higher.

We should have left room for desserts but none of us did so we ask for la cuenta. With tip the check comes to 2100P about $168, for drinks, wine, and 6 gourmet meals. Bill successfully fights Shelly for half of it. Did I already say that these guys are wonderful guests?

We combi back home and as tomorrow is getaway day, Bill and Mary pack. Another norte has blown in and it is cool, we’re in sweaters and light jackets as we sit around the patio table. Kevin’s low level chest croup is acting up again which slows him down and we’re all pretty tired. It is an early night for all.

Tuesday is a work day for us so Mary is logged in at 6 and I rouse up about 6:40 to make breakfast. It’s a chilly morning, about 55F, Mary is bundled up in long pants and a jacket at our workstation, poolside. Bill and Mary J are up and quietly eat the fruit and bread breakfast, always a bummer when vacation getaway day is here. Shelly is up as well and reports that Kevin’s croup is better but he is sleeping in, which is rare for him.

At 8:30 we see Bill and Mary J off with hugs and we tell them again what great guests they have been. It was a lot of fun getting caught up with them and reliving our crazy Princeton past. We learn later that their rental’s check engine light came on, on the way to Cancun airport but they did manage to limp it in. I think Bill and Mary will be busing to Mérida in the future.

Kevin and Shelly relax poolside, reading as the day does warm up, while Mary and I toil away. Mary logs off at noon and after her daily nap she gives Kevin and Shelly the Cocina Economica experience at Luis’ Loncheria just a couple blocks away. Mary brings me back spaghetti con albondigas, meatballs which is very tasty. After I log off Mary has a Bloody Mary and cigar, sweet thing that she is, waiting for me. None of us has much energy so we are quite content to sit around the patio table and nibble on cheese and crackers and tell stories. As the sun sets it gets so cool that we take the show on the road to the kitchen. Then Kevin and I get into the tequila (mine mixed with Xtabentun which tastes way too good) Shelly and Mary are content with beer, and we hear some pretty amazing stories about their Berthoud, CO gang, which I cannot retell for reasons of libel. The girls are sensible with Mary retiring first (workday tomorrow) and Shelly shortly after. I have no idea when Kevin and I hung it up but we sure had fun.

I awake Wednesday morning, feeling exactly the way I deserve to, and I get about my routine, preparing fruit and bread breakfast for everyone. I labor through the day and when I log off I join the others poolside. The weather has warmed up, the norte finally leaving, and the girls are dangling their feet in the pool. I join Kevin at the patio table, fire up a Cohiba and take a chug of my Superior cerveza. Kevin says, “If someone would have told me that, here, on our last day of Mexican vacation that I had not had a single cigar or marg, I would have told him he was crazy!” I tell him that there is nothing I can do about his chest croup but I can mix up  margaritas, pronto. In my defense I had had margs waiting for Bill and Mary, but they are not into those I found, so I guess I just forgot about them. Yea, that’s the story. So we sip those and we decide that we’re too lazy to go out so Mary orders some Pepperoni Pizzas.

We eat our pizzas and drink our drinks. Kevin and I discover that we’re select members of the “don’t eat the crusts club”, as we characterize them as needlessly filling bread sticks, which is fine by Mary because she dips mine in sauce and treats them exactly that way. We do a good job of stuffing ourselves and then Kevin and Shelly have to get about packing. It’s a short night as it will be an early rise tomorrow.

We roust up Kevin and Shelly at 3:45AM sipping coffee and ironically Kevin’s chest feels the best it has the whole visit. Roberto, the one-armed taxi driver is 5 minutes early, as usual, at 4:10. We see Kevin and Shelly off in the dark, telling them that they too have been wonderful guests and we have to do this every year. I instruct Roberto to croon them Beatles tunes on the way to the airport and he is happy to comply. And they’re off. We wave until they are around the corner.

Now it’s back to work for Mary and time to get about my morning routine for me. We know that it will take a few days to recover but, that was a helluva lot of fun! We hope it will be an annual event.

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. An interesting footnote: Just blocks away from our house Roberto was pulled over by a local policia and they tried to shake him down. But our intrepid Roberto stood his ground and a few minutes later they were back on their way to the airport. As always Bruce appreciates any and all feedback. Hasta pronto!

Bruce and Mary are about to have the pleasure of hosting our long time friends Kevin and Rosie for the third time, here in Mérida, but this will be the first time in the casa grande that they have the good fortune to be house-sitting, presently. Please share in the fun.

Kevin and Rosie had always flown directly into Mérida but then Kevin was still burning up his frequent flyer miles accrued during his long career with Tyson Foods. But, with those freebies gone they opted to do as many do who fly in from the Midwest. They took a far cheaper charter into Cancun and took the bus on that incredibly boring 4 hour ride into Mérida. We had walked them through the process of buying the shuttle tix at the airport and finding the shuttle bus and then buying the Mérida tix in the Cancun bus station and we had them print out our address for a cabbie from CAME, Mérida’s main bus depot, as most cabbies here do not speak any English.

So, it is Wednesday, January 20^th and we (Mary mostly) have been doing the little, last minute details of readying for guests. We have tracked their flights into Houston and Cancun. Kevin has his cell activated for international calls and so far no news is good news. It’s 7:15pm and the doorbell rings. We spring to the door and there they are! At the door there are hugs all around and then we lead them the 93 paces to the master bedroom. Even though they had a brief tour their last visit when we lived on Calle 52, they are, as all guests are, overwhelmed by the scale of this place and they are very impressed with the 1000 square foot master with a walk in bath completed by a glass walled shower with twin adjustable height shower heads and Japanese Soaking tub.

While they’re organizing their room we bring out botanas and margaritas and red wine to the patio table on the promenade. We dig into the chow and start drinking and getting caught up. Luckily the weather has changed back to normal. For two weeks, until just yesterday, we had been freezing in the evenings while watching our movies at the patio table. We were wearing long pants, thermal shirts and Mary would wrap herself with a blanket. The highs were barely reaching 80, sometimes not, and the lows had been in the low 60s. Maybe we have gone native, but it was very uncomfortable. This evening, I’m in shorts and tank top and the girls are sitting at the pool dangling their legs in the water. This is normal for this time of year.

Kevin and Rosie have been up since 3:30am this morning and we have a work day tomorrow so we call it quits about 10:30pm and everyone hits the sack.

It’s Thursday morning and Mary is up at her usual 5:00am for her 6:00 shift, and I am up at my usual 6:30 and I get about my routine which is to make 2^nd breakfasts for Mary and me (my first is nibbling while I make 2^nd) and I double the size of the fruit and avocado for Kevin and Rosie and include some special breakfast breads that Mary had picked up. Kevin is up about the time that I’m wrapping up my kitchen chores and he and I go on the roof to get a little cardio in. But first he wants me to explain the roof lines which I do as I point out the 18’ ceilings of the old part of the house at the front, the 16′ ceilings of the newer suites, and then this 14’ new addition that we are standing on. The media room is behind us, stacked on top of the master bath. It’s a bit difficult for Kevin to match up the rooflines with the interior but finally he aligns it in his head. Then I do my karate and Kevin does his Pilates. I am impressed that he has a good 20 minute routine memorized. Back downstairs Rosie joins Kevin for breakfast as I set up my desktop for my shift, shower up, chow down, do dishes, and log into work.

Kevin and Rosie have their own keys and they take off to entertain themselves, checking out Paseo de Montejo, the Champs-Elysees of the Yucatan. Kevin and Rosie are great guests. They understand that although this house may seem like a Boutique Hotel and this is México, the playground of vacationing gringos, this is our home, where we live and work.

I log off at 4pm and it is happy hour. Kevin jacks in his IPod to our promenade music system and regales us with the all the hottest wedding reception songs and some great stories from their gigs operating as DyerSoundWorks. I especially liked the story about the Johnnies depanting. We break from our play to have dinner in the dining room. Mary has prepared a pork roast and it is good but as Mary feared it is a little dry. It is hard for even an excellent cook such as Mary to accommodate the leanness of the pork cuts down here. But it is plenty good enough for us as we revisit the promenade, waddling.

We party and listen to more music, which is starting to stray towards country western, which Kevin knows I hate, so he accommodates me but does play some crossover stuff which he knows I like just to prove that I don’t really hate country western. Ok, I give up. We go until about midnight and then to bed.

It’s Friday and we’re off work and everyone is sleeping in. Once everyone is moving and functioning with plenty of coffee in our bellies Mary makes a scrambled eggs breakfast and then we head up to Wal-Mart for supplies. Kevin and I help the girls, with all our goods, to the far side of Paseo to await a taxi home while we truck up to California gym for a workout. I do my usual circuit routine and Kevin does his Pilates routine but I do talk him into a little unilateral resistance. You see, Kevin was one of the platoons of wounded soldiers who made it into St. Cloud Hospital’s emergency room on X-mas day, by way of reaching into his snow-blower. It was shut down, but the machine kicked back and pretty much crushed and nearly amputated his left index finger. Being a southpaw it was even more of a bummer. And even after extensive surgery and, unlike me, adherence to Doc’s instructions, it is still one ugly swollen up and colorful finger, but at least he is down to just a removable splint at this point. We wrap up our workouts and I am a little disappointed, for Kevin’s sake, that none of my roids boyfriends had made the scene because they are something to behold.

We leisurely walk our way back to the house and I join Mary in preparing for our little party this evening. After much talk with our friends we have finally gotten around to hosting the first Friday Night Happy Hour. We had sent a batch invite to our gringo and local friends with the instructions that happy hour starts at 5, every Friday, and everyone brings their own beverages and a botana to share, and by the end of happy hour someone will have volunteered for the next happy hour. And absolutely no RSVPs, come if you feel like it, don’t if you don’t.

Mary wins the bet and Jerome is the first guest to arrive, Jerome is a Coloradan who vacations here, and

ironically he is renting the vacation property that was our home for the final three months of our book project push. Shortly behind him is Dave the Brit with his “team” in tow. Dave is opening up a fish and chips shop and a deli and he has put together an impressive team of locals to run the interference. Team Varon, Lulu, and Jorge bear bags of beers and Varon has brought along some test empanadas that Mary heats up. They are a hit.

By 8:00pm I count about 25 people on the promenade. The elegant Tonya, my former personal training client, with hubby Bob have made the scene with their NY friends Francis and Sandra. Enrique a DF refugee, has come with his wife Mary (not Marie, I know, weird), daughter Dianna, hubby Alberto and their little 4 yr old Nina. Only Enrique speaks English, having worked for Ford. Enrique is almost exactly my age (and Mary, Mary’s) and he, like me has quit the corporate life to cobble things together until social security. Only difference is, like Canada, what we call social security starts for him at age 60.

I am cruising the party doing what I do, trying to tie it all together and I am able to get most of the non-English speaking locals into one group. Then I take a break and find the cool people, the smokers, to take a few hits on my cohiba that I had parked earlier. This gives me a chance to get to know Fred. Fred and Jan who have lived here for 6 years and they, as opposed to almost everyone we know, rent their house, they do not own, and they talk as if they never will. And why should they, as they have lived on the beach in a couple locations, and here in town, they are not even close to their original rental budget of $1500/mo that they established prior to their move. Right now they have a very nice house in a northern suburb (two blocks from the only bowling alley in Mérida) for $500/mo. Fred and Jan have just launched the Gold Book and used Yucatan Today for the publisher as we did for our Living in Mérida book. What started out as a conversation about the virtues of my Cohiba cigars opposed to his Te Amos has me hearing Mayor Daly stories from his days as the Fire Chief of Chicago.

Finally it occurs to me as people are starting to leave that we have no volunteer for next Friday. I make the announcement. There is an awkward moment before Lorcan, our Irish Canadian friend, and Lexi his vivacious wife bite the bullet and volunteer, even though they had told me privately, earlier, that they were just finishing up with a remodeling project.

It is down to Dave and his team and me and Kevin, the hard core, and finally I announce last call and everyone has been booted by 2. Oh boy, I’m too old for this.

Saturday we all sleep in and just relax. It is hot getting well into the 90s so we spend a lot of time in the pool and Kevin and I also get our chess rivalry going. Man, it is depressing because he just kicks my butt the first two games and that is all I want today. Then we head to El Lucero del Alba, one of our neighborhood bars, just a block away. This is a nice place with air conditioning, big screen TVs and bathrooms that not only have toilet seats but even paper towels! The free botanas come and it starts at level one with all kinds of taco rollups. Then stage two comes which today is chorizo, a sausage. Kevin insists it is chopped organ meat and will only taste it. I have our favorite server Lucio come by to explain that despite the deep red color of the ground meat inside the crispy casing, it is indeed pollo. Suddenly Kevin likes it. We wait for stage three which is usually poc chuc, or pollo ticuleño, with the presentation of a gourmet meal but instead we get some cheese-it type crap which we know signifies the end of the botanas. Once again we have overpromised a joint but Kevin and Rosie don’t seem to mind as they pick up the check and we move on. We have a pretty cool arrangement worked out. Mary’s mother Harriet, sis Sue and friend Nancy provided the model but how it goes is we provide everything inside the “compound” and Kevin and Rosie do that outside. Now with Harriet and Sue’s visit, being there were three of them and only two of us they volunteered some help with supplies as well. We hate to be concerned about such things and if we were rich and not working stiffs we wouldn’t be but otherwise, guests can be an economic impact.

We leave El Lucero’s and the sun has set. We walk towards El Corazon, the heart of downtown and we end up at The Peon Contreras’ sidewalk café and there is an older guy providing the customers with live Trova music, playing guitar and singing with a percussion machine backing him up. It’s warm but with a perfect cooling breeze and the people watching is excellent as there is a pretty good crowd here and a lot of foot traffic. Across the street, a giant Ceiba tree’s canopy stretches out to us. Our drinks come and we just relax, our collective blood pressures are approaching zero. The musician is quite good and I walk up to plunk a 10P coin in his little basket. I am a little dismayed that there is only a 20P note besides my contribution. But when he packs up to make way for the headliner group, a pan pipe and guitar duo, Kevin slips a 100P note into the breast pocket of his guayabera shirt.

Moving along, we head up Calle 62 to one of our favorite joints, the Mayan Pub. Usually Mary and I play a few games of free pool on the 8’ table, but Kevin’s bashed up finger nixes that idea so we head to the back garden and order up a jarra, pitcher, of Chope Obscura cerveza, and we order up some light fare for food. Our friend Gen, the Belgium part owner of the joint comes over to say hi and we introduce him to Kevin and Rosie. He says the live music starts a little earlier tonight, 9:30pm instead of 10, so there maybe hope for us old farts to experience some live Ska/Reggae. Our food comes and naturally the Mayan Keb that we had recommended to Kevin and Rosie, is barely lukewarm, and even after some microwaving, is not very impressive. Too bad as Mary’s empanadas and my alitas, chicken wings, are excellent.

We hang until about 10:30 and the band hasn’t even arrived to start setting up. We give up and head out and at the door is Gen having a smoke. He tells us that a buddy back home gave him a Mexican clock. It doesn’t have any hands. We laugh and hit the street.

Back at the compound Kevin breaks out a couple of his Cohibas and we light up. The women go to bed as Kevin and I talk about one of our favorite subjects, a Mx commune for us and our friends. That idea has matured to the point where were actually talking about the idea of jointly owning, with a few others, a 4 or 5 unit condo complex on the beach, something along the line of Casa Sol Mar, where we had stayed their first visit down. We talk how, ideally, we’d split time between here and MN and we are a little stymied how to answer the health care riddle for me and Mary. Kevin and Rosie have the income to afford a conventional plan, we don’t. Hmmm. We ponder this and other things til about 12:30am and then we too, call it a night.

Sunday dawns bright and warm, it’s going to be a hot one. We have some breakfast and then we check out

Mérida en Domingo. We start with sorbets on Paseo and then on to Santa Lucia to check out the music and older, quite talented dancers. Then on to La Plaza Grande with its hundreds of food and gift vendors. We walk the perimeter and Rosie finds a gift for everyone on her list. Now it’s time to get back home for some quality pool time which is how we while away the day until we head over to Varon’s place to watch the Vikings/Saints clash. On the way Kevin picks up some beer.

It’s my first time to Varon’s place. Like us he is house-sitting for a gringo, but unlike us, his place is small, faces a utility substation, and was renovated on the cheap. And we find out that this gringo bought this house on spec and expects at some point to move down here with his young family and make a living flipping houses. Good luck with that I think after I nearly fall down the illegal (well at least in the states) staircase leading to Varon’s large upper level bedroom where we set up to watch the game. Where only the room for a spiral staircase exists, this goofy gringo had built a tile stairway with inverted risers reducing an 8” tread to a usable 6”. On a beer run, my feet kick out but luckily I hooked the wrought iron railing under my armpit, creating a lot of noise but only my pride was hurt. Varon tells me that he has fallen down twice. Good thing he is young.

Well I don’t have to tell you how the game went but we had fun anyhow, smoking cigars and drinking lots of beers and munching on botanas. Next year, Vikes.

It’s Monday and we are not working again today, taking a long weekend. After everyone gets their fill of coffee Mary calls up our Doc and friend (and Daily Show star) Carlos but all she gets is his VM. Rosie has contracted some skin condition on her legs that looks eerily similar to the staph infection Carlos diagnosed last trip down. Mary looks for a doc recommended in our Living in Mérida book and we find one within walking distance and he has an opening at noon. So we head over to  Café Chocolat for their breakfast buffet, with everything including unlimited juice and coffee for 49P, about $4US. The eggs are a little rubbery but they have spaghetti, que Bueno!

We walk up to the Doc’s office and Mary accompanies Rosie in case of any language difficulties and the diagnosis comes back. It a reaction to mosquito bites and she gets a prescription for some cream and an admonishment to use the mosquito spray.

Kevin and I while away the day, pool side, drinking beer and playing chess. I finally win one after three straight losses. Kevin is trying to make up for my 5-2 record last visit.

The sun is starting to set as we head to La Plaza Seranata, right on the corner of La Plaza Grande. This is the very first restaurant Kevin and Rosie experienced in Mérida (ours, too, actually), on their first trip  and they really like it. We sit on the second level looking out over the park and all the activity and order up some drinks as we contemplate the menu. I have the Burrito Pastor, Kevin and Rosie  love Tacos al Pastor and order a bunch of them along with a Caesars  Salad and also a fruit salad for all to share. Mary orders the crème de elotes, a corn soup, which is so tasty that Kevin and Rosie order a bowl, essentially for dessert. We have several drinks apiece and Kevin can’t believe the bill, 640P with tip, about $50US!

We taxi back home and we play one more game of chess, I win again! And then we all hit the sack.

Tuesday is a work day for us and we are up early doing our workday routines but after Mary logs off at noon, she and Kevin/Rosie taxi to a pasta tile store/factory. They have been fascinated by pasta tile since their first visit down here and they have even had their son Travis trained to do tile work in the houses that they flip, they don’t do linoleum in bathrooms anymore, it is all tile. Of course there is not any pasta tile to be had in MN but the idea of making it available continues to intrigue Kevin. They come back very excited about their tour, conducted by the owner and they show me the 4 tile pattern they had bought. They plan on using it as a center piece for a custom wood floor in one of the houses they are renovating.

We order in pizza and spend this evening relaxing on the promenade.

Wednesday is another workday and Kevin and Rosie entertain themselves walking about town and doing some shopping. When I knock off at 4 Kevin produces some fine tequila and we start happy hour poolside with tequila, beer chasers, and Cohibas. It’s cooled off again and we’re all in long pants. Kevin announces that he wants to go somewhere nice and wants to spend 1000P. I allow that we may have not had the best luck with some of my recommendations but when Mary escorted them to the bus depot to buy their Cancun tix for tomorrow she had walked them to nearby La Choperia, a Brazilian/Mexican fusion place and this time Kevin trusts me.

It’s cool but not so cool that we don’t want to sit in the garden at La Choperia. The service is excellent as usual and soon we are sipping drinks contemplating the menu. Rosie orders a stuffed chicken dish that she raves about. I take a chance on Arrachera, a Yucatecan beef steak treatment and I am predictably disappointed. It is somewhat tasty but pounded flat and tough. Kevin has the sirloin medallion that I do sample and it is just ok, but probably not up to Kevin’s standard. Mary has the Fettucini Alfredo which is outstanding. I have to get it through my thick head, that with the exception of Hacienda Xcanatun, you really shouldn’t order any kind of beef steak, here. But all the sides are extraordinary and the cheese and chorizo appetizer was a hit. So were the drinks. The check comes to 1080P. Mary and I get the tip.

We leisurely walk the three blocks home and Kevin and I fire up Cohibas at the patio table and talk smart the rest of this, their last evening.

The alarm goes off at 5am and Mary and I crawl out of bed. I put together the usual fruit and bread breakfast and just as Mary is about to rouse them she can hear their cell alarm go off. In a bit they are trundling their gear to the front door and drinking coffee, waking up, and eating breakfast, in that order. Precisely at 6:20 Roberto our one-armed cabbie shows up and we embrace. Roberto is our man for the early morning cab rides. He sips a coffee as he regales us with the story of the battle of Puebla. And now, with hugs around, Kevin and Rosie’s visit has come to end. We wave as the taxi rounds the corner in the predawn darkness. Hasta luego, mis amigos!

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. Bruce and Mary had a great time with Kevin and Rosie but yet it is good to be back on a regular schedule and a few days of relative detox won’t hurt them at all either. Now it is the simple pleasures of life for the next month before the next house guests are down to visit. Hasta Luego!

The anticipation has been growing. Bruce and Mary’s youngest, Joey, and the gang planned this trip several months ago and the day of their arrival has finally dawned. Join Bruce and Mary as they pace the house waiting for the taxis to pull up.

Transylvania 6-5000 video

 

 

 

Under Siege divx

 

 

 

Mary is so excited I swear she better put on some Depends. Joey had Skype-called us from Cancun. He was sitting in our friend Marcus’ joint eating and drinking beers waiting for the next bus to Mérida and we expect them around 10:30pm. Around 9:30 I help Mary haul all the botanas, appetizers, to the poolside promenade. The featured botanas are Mary’s homemade empanadas, which had turned out perfect. At 10:30 Mary is actually sitting on the curb waiting. I’m hanging out in the kitchen and when I hear Mary squeal I rush to the door. Mary is giving the taxi driver a hug and saying, gesturing at the kids, “Mis hijos!” The driver says, “En todo?” and everyone laughs. Joey and Meryah, Drew and Laurel, and Andy and Ashley are out of their cabs and there are hugs all around. “What about me, dad?”  I am so excited that I had forgotten to give Joey a hug. I quickly fix that, laughing.

 

We haul their gear as far as the kitchen as they gasp at the scope of this huge house, and they’ve only seen about a third of it so far. I take drink orders. I have Margaritas mixed up, Cuba Libres ready to go, tequila, and of course beer. I am a little concerned about my beer inventory, having only about 3 cases on hand, because everyone orders beer. Then we usher them onto the pool promenade and everyone sits down and relaxes and chows down. I break out my puros Cubanos, my genuine Cuban Cohiba

Esplendido cigars. Drew and Andy join me. As usual Drew has me laughing, with his offbeat take on things and Andy gets so excited that his mouth has a hard time keeping up with his brain. After the cigars they join the rest of the gang playing in the pool like little kids. Mary and I enjoy the hell out of ourselves just watching and listening to them. Having gone native, we don’t go in the pool when the air temp is only 75 degrees. After romping until they are quite waterlogged they dry off and I crank up our IPod boom box and we dance. I last until 3 when this old carcass has to hit the sack, I don’t know when Mary came to bed.

 

download When Harry Met Sally… movie

We’re  up at 9:00 and I pick up the promenade while Mary puts together a breakfast of rolls and freshly squeezed orange juice. The kids wander in and take their nourishment and we consider the first order of the day. They all understand the ground-rules well. It’s really quite simple, we supply the shelter, they supply the beer. The lads and I march up to Issteys, the gov’t sponsored grocery store, where the best deals on beer and many other vittles are to be found. I bring my beer bag with, and we pick up 2 ½ cases of Superior six packs which cost 33P each, about $2.30US.

• Abbott and Costello Go to Mars download

 

Back home, poolside, we’re drinking beer and telling stories. Drew starts on a campaign of giving me crap about kicking my butt arm-wrestling and after probably a good hour of this I finally succumb, “All right Drew I’ve had enough, put your money where your mouth is!” We walk to the kitchen table with our fans in tow. We set up and right away I put his arm about an inch off the table. Which is where it stays. He has a knack of cocking his wrist for leverage in such a way that it takes me about a minute to finally put him down.

 

With the curtain down on this afternoon’s entertainment, the kids all take naps. Meryah explains that they never went to bed last night. “You, too, Meryah?” I asked. Meryah is the picture of composure and discretion. She explained that they were up on the sundeck when the boys became fascinated with the view from the front of the house overlooking Called 47. So they dragged all the pool chairs and chaise lounges there. Meryah was compelled, she explained, to police their efforts when one of these Einsteins discussed how much fun it would be

to do a Bourne, running from colonial rooftop to rooftop. I thanked her very much for her efforts.

 

 

Joey and Meryah roust up around 5ish and we get the others up, too, because we want to take them to our local bar, where everyone knows our name and give them the Mérida working man’s bar experience. The eight of us walk the three blocks to La Gran Lucha, The Great Fight, owned by our Cuban friend Fernando. I order litros of Victoria and Drew orders up shots, actually Mariana our favorite server points out that a small bottle of tequila would be cheaper so she brings that. Mary convinces Andy to order the michelada treatment for his beer and he really likes it.

 

Mariana has kept the botanitas coming but the kids are not that impressed with the pepinos, frijoles, mandarin orange wedges, liver in hot sauce and the salchichas, sliced up octagonal shaped wieners, does absolutely nothing for them. They are not even enthused by the chicken wings, a rare treat here. I guess I really have gone native.

 

It’s time to head out and Joey grabs the check and is getting his wallet out when I ask for a peek at la cuente, the bill. I always check the math here, and in the US. I see the total is 760 pesos and I know that is wrong. I show the check to Mariana and she blushes. The new gal Lleni had prepared the bill and the correct amount is 160P about $11US for the eight of us.

 

Back home Joey does a beer inventory and there are only 8 left. Despite my assurances of plenty of wine, tequila, vodka he has a beer panic attack and the boys head out to restock. After a quick conference as to the lads’ state of competence, Meryah and Ashley decide to accompany the potential miscreants to make sure there are no problems.

 

With the beer run made without international incident, we’re all on the promenade and the computer rings. It’s a Skype call from our favorite (only) daughter, Helen. She has the dubious honor of participating in a group conversation with a bunch of relatives and friends that have been partying nonstop. Joey thinks that Helen’s Skype picture looks like a vampire and goes off. Helen shows great restraint. I finally volunteer to end the conversation as it might be fun for us drunks, but probably not so much for her. After the call Joey and Ashley start debating who’d win a battle between vampires and zombies. It’s a rather ridiculous but surprisingly well reasoned debate. I give a quizzical look to Meryah. “Oh, this is ongoing.” She says. Joey and Ashley suspend their debate and the gang starts playing cards, poolside. Mary has already crashed, time for me to, too.

 

It’s Friday morning and after a light breakfast we march to La Corazon, the heart of downtown Mérida. We stop by Jana and René’s house on the way to drop off a NY Times that Joey had picked up for us. Jana is a NYer and like Mary, loves the actual thing, a paper newspaper. We had only intended to drop it off and not just rudely pop in unannounced but house manager Miguel insists on informing René, the crazy gray afro-ed Haitian jazz musician who is one of my favorite people. He insists that we come in for beers. He leads us by the pool to the back patio of this million dollar renovated colonial and seats us at a patio table. Soon Jana, who is recovering from hip surgery, joins us. We introduce the kids and then we make small talk about our book, Living in Mérida and the kids are pretty quiet, all wide eyed as they take in the surroundings. We all have a beer and then I apologize for just popping in on them and they politely allow us to take our leave as I lead the way out of the house. It is fun to introduce people, who we have talked about so much, to Joey and the gang. And it a gas to show off a house that made the cover of Ambiente magazine, the House and Garden of the Yucatan. We continue our campaign to La Casa de Las Artesenias, a government sponsored arts and crafts store. This wonderful tienda also features specialty Maya liqueurs, spices & sauces and handmade ropa, clothes. Everyone purchases their souvenirs and the kids announce that they are famished. We head the 2 blocks to La Plaza Grande and cut across it diagonally to La Seranata restaurant. We grab a big table on the second floor overlooking the park and order beers and food. Joey treats Mary to Frijoles charro and I suggest the Tacos al pastor Romper Stomper movie for Joey and Meryah, which is what I always get here. They announce that these are, bar none, the best tacos that they have ever had.

Talladega Nights: The Ballad of Ricky Bobby movie

 

We waddle out of the restaurant and I start to lead the gang across the street to the Olimpo which is a block away and where the free Picasso show is on display when a cigar vendor accosts me. Andy had said that he wanted some more Cubanos and I had intended to stop at a cigar shop on the way but I am able to negotiate 2 boxes of 5 Cohibas for only 300P, far less than at the shop. I am happy to do this as I know I will be a beneficiary. Mary leads the gang on the tour while I relax in the park. I’d already seen the 53 original works and one Picasso show in my life is quite enough.

 

Joey and the gang are evidently as inspired as I was, as they are in and out in about 20 minutes. Back at the ranch, Mary, with plenty of help from the girls, cooks up her Poblano and ground pork specialty as the boys and I start happy hour on the promenade. We retreat to the kitchen to eat this tasty Mexican specialty of Mary’s.

 

Everyone helps bus and the kids romp in the pool for awhile but then people fade pretty early except for Andy and me. We get start talking religion and Andy doesn’t see much use in the organized variety. I wonder if he knows much about Zen Buddhism, and bad luck for him he does not, so the poor lad finds himself on the receiving end of a Zen sales pitch. I proselytize like I used to in the old days until I finally wear him out and we call it a night, I’ve no idea what time it is.

 

Sugar release

Saturday dawns bright for anyone up to see the dawn and everyone is excited for beach day. We start off with buffet breakfasts at La Chocolate for 49P, about $3.50. This is a genuine Mexican cuisine buffet with items ranging from Huevos mole to chicharron en salsa verde (not many gringo takers on this one) and everyone fuels up heartily for the upcoming adventure.

 

Just up the block we hop a city bus to the Progreso bus stop. The Progreso bus arrives momentarily and as this is the weekend we find standing room only for the 40 minute ride. From the Progreso bus depot we walk the 4 blocks to the malecon and Mary points out the longest pier in the world. We had hoped to see a cruise ship docked for all the extra excitement that that brings to town, but no such luck. We walk east along the malecon among the vendors and pick one out of many beachfront palapa restaurants and settle in for a day of fun and sun. We keep the servers hopping as they must climb up over the malecon’s concrete bench lining the seaward side of the malecon and cross the busy street into the restaurant proper to fetch our beers. Andy and I celebrate the day, lighting up our Cubanos as the others are playing in the surf. Vendors, even food vendors, are constantly cruising through our palapa joint and Drew decides to give a temporary tattoo guy some business. He ignores our jeers as the artist applies what Joey calls an “angry cat”, actually a tiger to his right chest.

 

The sun is dipping and it is time for us to pack it in and head to the bus depot where we catch a super air-conditioned bus that is quite a contrast to the intense sun at the beach.  Back home everyone cleans up and with the exception of me, the beach always wears me out, they all hit La Noche Mexican, Mérida’s every Saturday night celebration where streets are closed and bands set up at every centro park. I am snoring when they return.

 

It is Sunday morning and after a light breakfast of fruit and rolls, Andy, Joey and Meryah join us for a Mérida en Domingo stroll up Paseo de Montejo. Every Sunday, Paseo is closed off for bicycling and artists display their wares on the wide tree shaded sidewalks and chess booths and kids art pavilions are set up and music is everywhere. We feel fortunate that Bavio

Winged Creatures movie

, the Argentinean painter we had told Meryah all about is set up on Paseo. We chat with him and introduce him to our artists Meryah and Andy and it’s pretty cool. We continue up to Wal-Mart to do our shopping for the day. We never shopped Wal-Mart back in MN but here it is different. In Mexico, as Joey explains, they changed their business model, because they had to, to work in partnership with the locals. This Wal-Mart looks like an art museum and all the parking is underground.

 

Andy and Joey pick up the meat for BBQing tonight and more beer of course. Mary and Meryah figure out the sides for the meal and we buy those. We take a couple taxis back as we are too laden for walking the mile home.

King Arthur download

 

• Interview ipod

We find Drew and Laurel on the promenade and they had had good luck in lining up a nice hotel on the beach in Cancun for this evening as they have an early morning flight out tomorrow. We relax poolside and drink beer and tell stories. Around 1:00 we sadly walk Drew and Laurel to the corner and flag a taxi to the bus depot for their 4 hour bus ride into Cancun. They tell us that they had a lot of fun and will be visiting again. I make Drew promise.

 

Around mid-afternoon Joey and I go on a guess what, beer run and when we return the kitchen is a hive of activity. Meryah is in charge with Mary and Ashley assisting with the sides and Andy is taking care of the meat prep. The meat is a typical Yucatecan cut, pork fillets pounded about 3/8” thick.

 

Everyone helps in setting up the promenade for the meal and Andy handles the BBQing flawlessly as we all sit down to eat. You can tell how good the food tastes by the sound of nothing except the clicking of utensils on plates. After busing we party-on, poolside.

 

I am up early Monday morning and I busy myself with picking up the promenade. The kids make the scene one by one and I feel a little sorry for Joey as he is moving rather slowly and he and Andy have an appointment to speak at El Instituto Tecnologico de Mérida. This had been arranged through Mary’s friend from CIS, Alejandra, and the boys were excited to volunteer for this, but they’re not excited this morning. Around noon Mary and the boys take a taxi to the University and even though today is a holiday and no school is scheduled, they have to move the presentation from a classroom to an auditorium because of the turnout. Joey talks for about 30 minutes on how business is conducted at General Mills and Andy spends the same length of time talking about American journalism from his viewpoint as Opinions Editor of the SCSU Chronicle. They are rock stars. After things wrap up they are surrounded by students who want to take them out for a beer, wanting more details about American life.  Alejandra rescues them and recruits a lucky student to give them all a ride home. They get home about 3 and they are pumped. They couldn’t believe the reaction they received; these Meridano University students are so hungry for any and all things Estados Unitos, US.

 

Brainscan movie

Everyone is hungry so we walk on down to Dal’s, our favorite cocina economica. Our favorite because it is the only one we know that serves beer. Andy picks up the ticket for the six of us and can barely hide his glee when I tell him the 170P bill is about $12US.

 

After Dal’s Joey and I walk back home and the rest take a taxi to CAME the ADO bus terminal to get tickets for tomorrow’s bus rides to Cancun. Joey takes a nap as the euphoria from the presentation has worn off.

 

My nephew Eli and his UMD roommate Eric had called earlier and they are right on schedule to be arriving, via Cancun, at the house around 7:30pm. Mary busies herself with cooking up an adobo rubbed pork loin roast dinner. We want to be sure to have plenty of food as Eli and Eric are UMD football players (D2 National Champs) and Eli is of the 300# variety. Joey, Meryah, Mary and I camp out on the sidewalk and right at 7:30 their taxi pulls up. We usher them out to the promenade and I give them a little crap, “You must be the only two football players on the team who don’t drink!” They allow that they probably are. Dinner is served in the kitchen and then we all relax by the pool.

 

Today, Tuesday is a sad day. We’re up early to see Andy and Ashley off to the bus depot for their Cancun flight later this afternoon. They thank us profusely for our hospitality and I tell them they have to visit again. After the rest of the kids are up, Mary takes them to La Chocolate for breakfast. We spend the next few hours sitting poolside quietly talking until 2:15, the time to walk Joey and Meryah to the corner for a cab. Amidst tears we tell Joey and Meryah that they can move in any time and that we miss them already. We stand there and watch the taxi disappear into traffic. Then we slowly walk home, my arm around Mary who is quietly crying. I console her with the fact that this is the first of many visits from our kids. And now, let’s go have some fun with Eli and Eric. The Andromeda Strain full movie

 

Thanks for visiting gentle reader. Mérida has been truly a place of serendipity for Bruce and Mary but it is a long ways away from family. But now they are confident that family will be visiting regularly which completes their lives. As always, Bruce appreciates any and all feedback. Hast la vista, baby!

 

 

 

 

 

Evelyn psp